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Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han nationality. Also known as
attire
,
clothing
Han Suit. Hanfu is
China
"
Dress up the country
""
A land of ritual
The embodiment of "Splendid China" carries China's outstanding craftsmanship and aesthetics such as dyeing and weaving embroidery, and has passed on more than 30 items
China's intangible cultural heritage
And protected
Chinese arts and crafts
.
[103-104]
Hanfu "began
Yellow Emperor
, in case
Yao and Shun, ancient dynasties
"
[4]
, derived from the Yellow Emperor system crown suit
[5]
; Posterior channel
Zhou Dynasty
Establishment, Eastern Han Dynasty
Emperor Ming of Han
Period repair type, and finally determine the complete system.
Since then, each Huaxia dynasty zong Zhou FaHan to inherit the Han clothing as a state event
[6]
And there it is
Twenty-four histories
In the Koshi. "Huangdi, Yao and Shun hung their clothes and ruled the world, benefiting from the universe."
[7]
It means that the shape of the garment under the coat is determined by providence and is sacred
[8-9]
.
with
The Han Chinese
Similarly, the denotation of the word "Han" in Hanfu also has a process of expanding from the Han Dynasty to the whole nation. For example, the earliest record of "Hanfu" in Mawangdui Tomb No. 3 is as follows: "Jane forty-four" four beauties, two Chu clothes, two Hanfu ".
[1]
"Hanfu" in the Han Dynasty refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty, namely
The rites of Zhou
""
etiquette
""
The Book of Rites
The crest system in"
[2]
; And the book was written
Tang Dynasty
's
Manshu
"The record:" At the beginning of the Han costume, after a bit of Zhurong customs, but so far, but the morning xia wrapped the head, the rest of the no difference "in the" Hanfu "refers to the Han people's dress etiquette system
[3]
.
Hanfu also passed
Chinese law system
Affect the whole
Han culture circle
Asian countries such as
Japan
,
North Korea
,
Vietnam
,
Mongolia
,
Bhutan
All of the national costumes have or learn from the characteristics of Hanfu.
- Chinese name
- Hanfu
- Foreign name
-
Han Fu
Hanbiuk (Middle Chinese)
- definition
- Han nationality costume
- Basic characteristics
- Hand over collar, right skirt, tie
- Basic shape
- Deep clothes, jackets, robes, jackets and trousers
- Constituent structure
- First clothing, body clothing, foot clothing, accessories
There are many records about Hanfu, just to list some:
|
provenance
|
content
|
|---|---|
|
Mawangdui in Changsha
Bamboo slips unearthed in the Western Han Dynasty
|
"Four beauties, two Chu Fu, two Han fu."
[1]
|
|
"Number to congratulate, music Han clothing system."
[11] 10 -
|
|
|
"Shangren, this Han also. The tribe is north of Iron Bridge. We don't know when they moved. At the beginning of the Hanfu, after a little to participate in the Zhurong custom, but so far, but the morning xia wrapped the head, the rest of the same."
[3]
|
|
|
"Han Chang Man, the Han people, in the Tieqiao. However, with the morning glow wrapped around the head, I still have the same Hanfu."
[12]
|
|
|
"
Liao Dynasty
Since Taizong entered the Jin Dynasty, the emperor and the south ban Han officials used Hanfu; Queen Mother and North Class
Qidan, an ancient nationality in China
The official uses the national uniform, its Hanfu namely
The Five Dynasties
The legacy of the Jin Dynasty."
[13]
"Hanfu, the Yellow emperor began to make crown clothing, the king to sacrifice to enjoy." ... In conjunction, the Empress dowager, the north of the official national service; Emperor, southern officials Hanfu. After the dry Hang, in the north of the rites of three kinds of above also used Hanfu; After the heavy Xi, the great ceremony and Han clothing."
[14]
|
|
|
Among the kingdoms, the Great Liao ambassador had a gold crown, with a long eaves like a large lotus leaf, a narrow purple robe, and a walk in gold; The deputy envoys wore gold belts, like Hanfu."
[15]
|
|
|
"Emperor Taizong banned people from wearing Hanfu, which made them bald."
[16]
|
some
Ancient books
The Han (and their ancestors) already had a unique clothing system. For example, "Records of the Grand Historian" believes that "Chinese clothes were made by the Yellow Emperor" "Before the Yellow Emperor, there was no clothes house. And the Yellow Emperor built houses, clothes, and funerals, so that all people would not survive or die." Before the age of no archaeological physical support, the earliest appearance of Hanfu should be
Shang Dynasty
Time. About five thousand years ago, China produced primitive agriculture and harmony in the Yangshao Culture of the Neolithic Age
Textile industry
And began to use woven linen to make clothes, the wife of the Yellow Emperor
Leizu
Silkworm rearing and silk spinning were invented, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.
After the Shang Dynasty,
Cap system
Initially established,
The Western Zhou Dynasty (206 B.C.)
At that time, the dress system was gradually improved, and a chapter dress system centered on the "Tianzi dress" was formed
[17]
. "Cease to be wealthy and chariot, and you can swallow Zhou's crown" is it
Confucianist
The essence of governing the country.
[18]
Zhou Li used the Xia and Shang dynasties for reference
Rites and music system
.
[19]
Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period
There is an unprecedented variety of clothing styles. In the late Zhou Dynasty, due to the rapid changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the hundreds of theories had a certain impact on the perfection of clothing, clothing and customs between the vassal states began to have obvious differences, and created the deep clothing. The costume system has been included in the scope of "ritual governance" and has become a form of etiquette, and since then, the costume system in China has been more detailed. In ancient times, the clothing that passed up and down was deep clothing, and the clothing that represented the characteristics of The Times was also
Deep clothing
Deep clothing can be the characteristics of ancient clothing. Those who obey the ancient language, should be the first. What is deep clothing,"
The Book of Rites
· Deep clothes "Kong's justice said:" So called deep clothes, to the rest of the clothes, the shirt is not connected, this deep clothes connected, the body is deep, so called deep clothes." In short, the system of deep clothes is actually the first of ancient clothes, and the leader of deep clothes is not only in its system form, but also through the upper and lower clothes, in time, the longest popular. As a result, wearing Hu clothing for a while along the trend
[20]
. In addition, the musicians wear hoods, the dancers have sleeves that are several feet long, the hunters' clothes are mostly tied tightly, some people often wear a bird horn hat or a magpie tail crown, and wear a small sleeve long dress
[21]
.
The qin dynasty
After the unification of China, various systems were established, including the clothing system.
Qin Shi Huang abolished the core of the Zhou dynasty
Six coronas
Uniform system, establish their own new official uniform system. Although these movements are very vigorous, but in fact, the overall style of clothing at that time has not yet separated from the characteristics of the Han nationality. Later, the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty extended throughout the Western Han Dynasty.
[105]
The etiquette system of the Western Han Dynasty consisted of
Emperor Gaozu of Han Dynasty
the
All too often
A surname
Formulated according to the etiquette system of Xia, Shang and Zhou three generations.
[22]
Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothing. Inside the cicada are the middle coat and the deep coat
[23]
. The typical women's deep clothing in the Western Han Dynasty has two kinds of straight train and curved train, and the tailoring has been different from that of the Warring States deep clothing. Western Han men's deep coat coat collar width to the shoulder, right skirt straight, the front flap down to the ground, in order to facilitate activities, the back flap from the knee as a trapezoidal dig, so that the two sides of the flap into a dovetail
[24]
. Women in the Han Dynasty liked to wear jackets and long skirts while working. They often wore jackets with long hanging belts. Men in the Han Dynasty worked with jackets for their upper jackets and nose pants, covering them with a cloth skirt
Scholar, farmer and businessman
wearable
[25]
.
However, modern people see Emperor Wu Dai Mian in the portrait, in fact, there is no historical basis - until the second emperor of the Eastern Han Dynasty
Emperor Ming of Han
Advocate Confucianism, then restore
Mianfu
The system.
[105]
To the Eastern Han Dynasty
Emperor Ming of Han
Referring to the dress system of the three generations and the Qin Dynasty, the Han Dynasty crown dress system was established with the crown hat as the main sign to distinguish grades. Clothing on the whole presents a dignified, elegant style.
Emperor Ming of Han Dynasty was an important figure in the history of the development of Chinese Hanfu. He restored the Guanfu system that had been abandoned since the fall of the Zhou Dynasty. He inherited the Zhou ceremony from the top and inspired the hundred generations from the next, and established the Han Dynasty Guanfu system with the crown and hat as the main symbol to distinguish ranks. A cultural Renaissance of the Chinese people in the field of clothing after the field of thought.
[106]
During the Qin and Han dynasties, men mainly wore a kind of wide-dress robe with large sleeves, which was mainly divided into
Curved train
A surname
Straight train
Two types of robes, in addition to worship and court meetings, other occasions can be worn. Another characteristic of the Han Dynasty is the practice of matching
ribbon
The system. Women in the Han Dynasty usually swept their hair back and curled it into a bun. There are many kinds of bun style, can not win. In addition to the noble woman's head
buyao
,
hairpin
For decoration. Slaves and maidservants used scarves to cover their heads. The female dress of Han Dynasty was deep dress, which was different from that of Warring States period. And jackets and pants. The Han Dynasty also had strict grading rules for shoes.
Hanfu activities
Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
Influenced by social politics, economy and ideology, the costume of the period developed from the old system of the Qin and Han Dynasties in the Wei and Jin Dynasties to the mutual influence, mutual absorption and gradual integration of various nationalities in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. The clothing of this period is mainly characterized by natural and free, elegant and empty. Covering one's head with a scarf was the main first dress of this period. The more popular is a "cage crown" with a cage towel on the small crown. The clothing of Han men in this period was mainly a shirt with wide cuffs and no clothes to remove constraints.
The Han nationality
Women's hair accessories are also quite characteristic, mainly the popularity of fake buns. Women's clothing in the Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of the Qin and Han dynasties, and improved on the traditional basis, generally wearing shirts, jackets, jackets, skirts, and styles were mostly frugal-and-frugal-and-abundant, the body part of the clothes was tight and fitted, the cuffs were thick, and the skirts were more pleated, the skirts were long and the hem was loose, so as to achieve a handsome and unrestrained effect.
Tang Dynasty clothing link the preceding and the following, the legal clothing and the common clothing simultaneously parallel. The dress is the traditional dress, including crown, crown, dress, etc. Regular clothing is also known as
Public service
Is the general formal occasion of the dress, including
Crewneck robe
Shirt,
A surname
Leather straps, boots, etc. Color clothing to the Tang Dynasty has formed a system. Tang Dynasty women's bun style complicated, hair on the temples inserted
Gold hairpin
, rhino
comb
An aristocratic woman's face
Light yellow
,
mother-of-pearl
,
dimple
Let's wait. Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty mainly consisted of skirts, shirts and skirts. Dresses and skirts were the main clothing of women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's short shirts were with small sleeves, under the tight skirt, skirt waist high, generally above the waist, and some even tied under the arm, and tied with ribbon, giving people a beautiful and slender feeling. The dresses and skirts of the middle Tang Dynasty were wider than those of the early Tang Dynasty, but there were no other changes.
Song Dynasty
The dress generally followed the old system of Sui and Tang Dynasties. However, due to the long years of internal troubles and foreign conflicts in the Song Dynasty, coupled with the influence of neo-Confucianism and other factors, the clothing of this period advocated simple, rigorous and implicit. In the Tang Dynasty, the soft-footed head had evolved into a cap lined with wood bones and covered with lacquer yarn. The emperor and the officials wear the head of the foot, the tolerance, the servants wear the head of the foot, the Confucian scholars wear the headscarf. Men's clothing in the Song Dynasty was still dominated by round-neck robes, except for officials
sacrifice
Robes are worn outside the court, and grades are distinguished by different colors. Women's hairstyles in the Song Dynasty were popular in the late Tang Dynasty
chignon
For your preciousness, hairpins and flowers have become a custom. Women's skirts in the Song Dynasty were narrower and more finely pleated than those in the Tang Dynasty. The shirt is mostly on the front, covering the skirt
[26]
.
Long clothes in the Yuan Dynasty are collectively referred to as robes, and their styles differ little from the north to the south, but the material is expensive and cheap, but there is a wide gap. The male hairstyles of Han nationality did not change much, but the female hairstyles of Han nationality in northern China were simplified.
At the beginning of the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, it tried to eliminate the influence of the Mongolian costume system of the Yuan Dynasty on the Han costume, and "I was ordered to return to the Tang system", but it could not be fully implemented. It was not until the 26th year of Hongwu that many clothing systems began to be determined. During the Ming Dynasty, cotton cloth was popularized, and the clothing materials of ordinary people were improved. The main headwear of officials in the Ming Dynasty was slightly different from that of the Song and Yuan Dynasties. Ordinary people's clothing or long or short, or shirts or skirts, basically inherited the traditional dress style, and the variety is very rich. During the Ming Dynasty, in addition to the hats worn by ordinary people in the past, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds and issued them throughout the country, which were common to scholars and ordinary people
Six in one hat
and
Square flat scarf
[27]
.
In order to weaken the sense of national identity of the Han people in order to maintain the rule of Manchu, the Qing rulers implemented "shaving hair and changing clothes", and those who wore Han clothes and hair were punished with felony
[28]
. After the Manchu entered the customs, the Han nationality was ordered to shave their hair and dress easily, and "dress in honor of this dynasty system." In May of the first year of Shunzhi (1644), Prince Heshuorui, regent, ordered: "The castle has sent people to call back... There are those who are said to submit without shaving their hair, there is a sense of suspicion, it is appropriate to nuclear places near and far, set a time limit, the period to Beijing, the amount to Beijing, the amount to grace, if the limit is not reached, it is resistance, and the punishment is set."
[29]
Since then, the Qing Court has repeatedly issued decrees on shaving hair and changing clothes
[30]
.
In the second year of Shunzhi, the Qing army attacked the Jiangnan provinces, and the Qing government ordered the system of shaving the head and changing the dress to be implemented throughout the country. The Qing government issued a shaving order again, requiring that "within and outside the capital limit ten days, directly affiliated to the provinces and localities, from the day of the Ministry to the day, also limited to ten days, do shave hair", if there is "still Ming system, not with the system of the court, no pardon." This was accompanied by a forced change in the style of Han clothes. At that time, countless people were killed for wearing Han clothes. Jiangyin people rose up to resist, insist on the war of resistance for three months, the city was broken, the whole people fought to the death, men, women and children no surrender. The people of Jiading also persisted in the struggle for more than two months, and were brutally slaughtered by the Qing soldiers, which became an unprecedented atrocious tragedy in Chinese history. At that time, in the vast areas of China, due to the destruction of agriculture and handicraft industry by feudal rulers in the late Ming Dynasty, and the advance and suppression of peasant uprisings by the government and the army, many places had been desolate and devastated. Along with this cruel policy comes a change of dress. The Qing Court once again forced the Han army and civilians to change their Manchu clothing. Some rural peasants, unaware of imperial decrees, occasionally wore Ming Dynasty clothing to the city, most of them were stripped naked, and they were lucky to save their lives. It can be seen that the change of easy to wear is the same as the shaving order, which is implemented through compulsory methods
[31]
.
The long resistance struggle of the Han made the Qing government consider making some concessions in order to stabilize the situation. So put forward the so-called "ten from ten not from", that is, in clothing from male to female, from birth to death, from Yang to Yin, from official to official, from old to young, from Confucian to monk to Taoist, from advocating to actress not to obey; As well as the official thus marriage does not follow, the state title thus the official title does not follow, the service tax thus the language does not follow. This limited concession finally retained some of the characteristics of Hanfu, but in general Hanfu still gradually died out under the bloody repression and massacre of the Qing rulers
[32]
. It also resulted in more than two hundred years of Qing Dynasty history, Han men's clothing is basically based on Manchu clothing, cheongsam, gown, jacket are Manchu as the main body of the national clothing improvement and development, rather than the traditional Han
National costume
[33]
.
A shaved head is easy to wear
Hanfu itself is in the Qing Dynasty
A shaved head is easy to wear
It disappeared under such ruling policies, but because of its strong vitality, some of its elements have not been extinct until the modern Han people believe in it
Taoism
,
Buddhism
And some of the backcountry people, and a lot of the country
Minority nationality
All of the costumes still maintain the characteristics of Hanfu, some of the importance of modern society
sacrifice
, commemorative activities,
Folk festival
You can also see some elements of Hanfu. At the beginning of the 21st century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the excellent parts of their traditional culture. Some traditional culture lovers, by studying Hanfu and taking its essence and discarding its dross, have restored traditional Han clothing, and re-promoted Hanfu by wearing Hanfu in traditional festivals, promoting traditional theories, and playing traditional Musical Instruments, which is called the process
Hanfu movement
[34-35]
.
Hanfu and modern life
Hanfu adoption
picture
Kanji
'
Two inches (about 50cm)
Cloth and silk
Cut into
[36]
And divided into collar, lapel, skirt, garment,
fringing
, sleeve, sleeve, belt, 韨 and other ten parts
[37]
. Take two pieces of cloth of equal length and fold them in half as
Front and back train
Sew back
Center joint
. The front without the front
Straight collar
The front coat. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two skirts, and sew it on the left and right skirts, it is
Skew collar
The right skirt. The center of the front and back train is called
裻
[38]
, that is
Governor vessel
,
Ren channel
The right side of the incumbent pulse, so called
The right side of the husband
. The train's length is divided into
The waist
In,
knee
Up.
The foot
Up. According to the length of the train, the Hanfu has three lengths:
Ru
[39]
,
Shu
[40]
,
Deep clothing
[41]
. The seam between the sleeve and the train is called
Ge
[42]
The cuff is called
remove
[43]
. A complete set of Hanfu usually has three layers: Xiao Yi (Xiao Yi)
underwear
),
undergarment
A coat.
-
Hand over the right skirt
The left side of the Hanfu coat and the right side of the coat cross the chest, naturally forming a "y" neckline, this collar is figuratively called "Y".
Hand in
". The two sides of the collar intersecting in the middle of the clothing line contains the concept of symmetry in traditional culture, showing a unique neutral charm, on behalf of life to be impartial. If we say that Hanfu shows the unity of heaven and man, it means the earth in the round sky, the earth is humane, that is, square and right; The sleeves, on the other hand, are round sleeves, representing the round sky in the round place. The expression of this kind of celestial circle and place learning in Hanfu is also an embodiment of ancient Chinese culture.
The most typical Hanfu collar is the "hand over the right skirt", that is, the collar is connected to the front, the front is crossed in front of the chest, the left side of the front pressure on the right side of the front, in appearance as a "y" shape, forming the effect of the overall clothing to the right. The front of the skirt is the original meaning. The left front flap covers the right axillary strap, and the right flap is covered in it
The right side of the husband
Vice versa
Left side of the skirt
. In history, Hanfu has long maintained the tradition of "handing over the right side", which is inseparable from the traditional Chinese thought of "respecting the right side" and is obviously different from other ethnic costumes.
In addition to the "hand over the right collar (straight collar front)", the common collars in Hanfu are "straight collar front" and "round collar front". The straight collar is that the collar hangs parallel from the neck, not crossed in the chest, some have a tie in the chest, and some are directly open without a tie. This kind of clothes with straight collar and opposite skirt is generally worn outside the Hanfu, such as a cloak, 褙子 and so on. Round neck front is a common style in men's wear, the collar is disk-shaped round, it is also the right skirt, fixed in the right shoulder with cloth buckle, used in the official clothes of the Tang Dynasty and later, there are also round neck front style in ordinary clothes
[9]
. After the Ming Dynasty, "vertical collar" gradually became popular.
Hanfu collar type
-
Bright clothes and wide sleeves
Hanfu ancient dress
With fine clothes and ribbons
Short clothes with wide sleeves. Compared with the western clothing of the same period, Hanfu has indisputable excellence in human nature. While Westerners use breastplates and skirts to restrain the development of women's bodies, the wide Hanfu has realized the free stretching of the body.
The sleeves of Hanfu are also called"
sleeve
Its shape is relatively unique in the history of the world's national costumes. Most of the sleeves of Hanfu are round sleeves, representing the round sky in the round place. Round sleeve is the mainstream style of Hanfu sleeves.
The sleeve width and length is another significant feature of the sleeve shape of the Hanfu, showing a graceful, elegant and graceful style. However, not all Hanfu is like this, Hanfu small sleeves, short sleeves are also more common, such as participating in the labor of the common people clothing, military uniform, take its tight sleeve warm winter clothing. Sometimes the economic, cultural and aesthetic trends of the various dynasties in history are different, and there are different manifestations in the sleeve type, such as the large sleeve of the dress in the Han and Tang Dynasties, and the small sleeve of the ordinary dress in the Song and Ming Dynasties
[9]
.
Hanfu full body portrait
-
Buckle buckle
The hidden buckle in Hanfu includes two cases: no buckle and with buckle.
Most of the Han clothing is fixed with a tie, such as a straight collar front shirt, generally there are three pairs of straps, a strap under the left arm and a strap on the right front is a pair, the two straps under the right arm and the two straps on the left front are two pairs, the three pairs of straps are tied to complete the dressing process. Sometimes people will tie a large belt and a long belt around the waist according to their needs, which is not only practical, but also has a decorative effect; Compared to the kimono, the Hanfu has a narrower belt.
The common buttons in Hanfu are metal, pearl and cloth.
Although the styles of Hanfu are many and complex, and there are formal clothes, ordinary clothes and casual clothes, but according to its overall structure, it is mainly divided into deep clothes system (connected up and down) and blouse system (two pieces of clothing).
|
Collar type
|
Lapel type
|
Sleeve type
|
Server name
|
||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
up
|
Straight collar, round collar, square collar, curved collar, vertical collar
|
Front, opposite front
|
Sleeveless, half sleeve, arrow sleeve, bow bag sleeve, straight sleeve, hanging sleeve, lute sleeve
|
Ru
, shirt, jacket, robe
|
Straight and deep garments, curved and deep garments, 袿 garments, pleated garments,
裲 crotch
HND clothing
hemibrachia
, top, 褙子, crane,
bionychia
,
Sew clothes directly
,
Large gown
,
Taoist robe
Cape, etc
|
|
under
|
-
|
Loincloths, hakama,
The skirt
|
Loincloths for calves and noses, cross 窬 skirt, pleat skirt, spiral skirt, hundred dresses, horse skirt and so on
|
||
Hanfu includes clothes,
First Server
,
Hair style
,
Face Wear
The overall clothing system combined with shoes, accessories, etc., has been condensed
Chinese culture
the
spin
,
batik
,
Quilted valerate
,
beautiful
And so on outstanding technology and aesthetics, inherited more than 30
China's intangible cultural heritage
It embodies the reputation of the splendid China, the country of clothes and the state of etiquette.
-
cloth
Hanfu cloth since the Yellow Emperor has mainly
ramie
and
silk
Two kinds of
[44]
Collectively known as
Cloth and silk
[45]
Respectively by
Encyclopedia 枲
,
dainsilk
Be in charge of
[46]
, set separately
palmata
Ramie collected for making cloth. Cloth is also known as
Grass cloth
It is the cloth of mourning, sacrifice and deep clothing
[48] 47 -
. The finer part of the cloth is called dry silk. In summer, garnet gauze is used, and in winter, silk wool is used
flocculant
,
[49]
Therefore, it is called winter cotton summer cotton, summer yarn and winter crepe. To the Eastern Han Dynasty, Hainan and Yunnan began to rise cotton spinning and weaving
[50]
. Cloth according to the textile process, warp and weft organization can be subdivided into brocade, satin, silk,
silk
,
yarn
,
didi
,
gauze
,
crepe
,
silk
,
satin
Let's wait. During the Qin and Han dynasties, except
Qi Wan
,
lulu
There's more to it than that
Wu Ling
,
Viet
, Chu silk,
Sichuan brocade
Such famous products. afterwards
The Northern Song Dynasty (960-907)
The court is in...
Tokyo
The establishment of the "Ling Brocade Courtyard" recruited many Shu brocade weavers to make dresses for the nobility, thus forming
Song brocade
. Capital of Ming dynasty
Nanjing
There it is again
brocade
.
Zhijin County
Silk, brocade, brocade and twill are the most expensive fabrics
[51]
Corona take green Luo Yi, red Luo dress, red Luo
Cover knee
Made. Official robes are made of twill. robe
sternodorsum
With the most exquisite brocade
Cosmetic brocade
Production.
Zhou ritual is stipulated
tainer
Be engaged in
Printing and dyeing
And set up a special management of vegetable dye officials responsible for "palm dyeing grass" for the use of impregnated clothing. The traditional printing and dyeing of Hanfu is divided into mineral dyeing and dyeing
Plant dyeing
.
[52]
Mineral dyeing raw materials include
Vermilion
,
Stone yellow
,
Air blue
,
Azurite
,
Rhizome flour
, clam,
Carbon black
. Traditional plant dyeing materials include:
indigo
,
Safflower flower
,
Dark plum
,
calamite
,
haematoxylon
,
Amur corktree
,
Blue vitriol
, amaranth blue,
Sophora flower
Gallseeds, red bayberry bark, Bluetooth leaves, lotus seed shell,
Mung bean powder
And so on
[53]
.
Quilted valerate
,
cerovalerian
and
crepe
It is a unique printing process in Hanfu printing and dyeing
[54]
.
Emperor Yang of Sui
He ordered artisans to print colorful valerian skirt, used to reward palace women and the wives of officials.
Grey valerian
It is a substitute for batik since the Tang Dynasty.
bluegrass
The dyed grey valerian fabric is called
Blue calico
In ancient times, it was called medicine patch cloth. Zhou Li also established the"
Gong Fu
","
seamer
"Level responsible for embroidery. "Zhou Rites · Painting" said: "five picks, called embroidery." According to the traditional habits of different regions, different styles and characteristics of embroidery have been formed. One of the most famous is Jiangsu's
Suzhou embroidery
Hunan
Hunan embroidery
Sichuanese
Sichuan embroidery
And Cantonese
Guangdong embroidery
, known as China's four famous embroidery
[55]
.
-
armory
Subject article:
Twelve arms
Hanfu coat of arms is very rich,
The rites of Zhou
"The grain is valuable" represents
Han culture
Beliefs and practices. The heraldry in Hanfu is closely similar to all kinds of cultural symbols such as sky shape and earth image, Yin-yang eight diagrams, invisible colorless and auspicious patterns in the consciousness of Han people.
Huangdi
Dress up
It's the earliest one
armory
The shirt of the shirt refers to the coat of arms backed by two colors. "The Book of Songs" cloud: "The gentleman to the end, embroidered clothing, jade will be, longevity exam do not forget." Emperor Yu's "sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects,
Zong Yi
, algae, fire,
Rice flour
,
Fu
,
Fu
"
Twelve arms
In the middle of the day, the sun, the moon, and the stars are clearly visible, like the occurrence and formation of all things. Mountain dragon xing Yunyu, can adapt to dip material to match the day. Fire Ming and inflammation, emphasizing the spirit of Chongli. Also like a tiger, strict fierce; 蜼, wisdom, like the divine force of chaos. The rice people. 黼 like cutting can cut. 韨 like back blowing in injustice, or whether the king and minister can be mutually assisted
[56]
.
"
New Book of Tang
· Car clothing records official clothing badges, there are Uighur title grass, wild goose title ribbons, Rehmandi branch and other names
[57]
. In the Ming Dynasty, the toner was mainly an animal, such as the crane, the golden pheasant, the peacock, the cloud goose, the white goose, the egret, seven 㶉 sea ð«¶, eight oriole, and nine Military attache one, two lions, three, four tigers, five bears, six, seven pumas, eight rhinos, nine seahorses
[58]
. On the civil clothing, there are separate patterns of animal origin, and they are different from the animals in the official clothing patterns, the most important of which is the zodiac. In addition, the pattern of Hanfu is often used
Bagua
.
Hanfu decorations like to use with auspicious meaning of the pattern. Such as "six contract spring", "grain harvest", "icing on the cake" and other patterns. At the same time, according to different occasions, will also choose different patterns. Such as newlywed wedding clothes and lovers give each other Xin Wuhurt often use the pattern of mandarin ducks, such as "mandarin ducks concentric", "Mandarin ducks splashing in the water" and so on; Birthday is often used "pine crane longevity", "crane offering peach", "turtle crane age" and other means of longevity
[59]
.
-
Foot coat
The feet of Hanfu are: lagoon, shoes, 屦, clogs, boots, shoes
[60]
. After Yao Shunyu began to wear
clogs
.
Yi Yin
The grass is the shoe, the silk is the 屦
[61]
. Zhou people use hemp as shoes. Clogs are
Wooden boots
Under the teeth, also known as clogs. South of the Yangtze River
Tung tree
For the base, use
pu
For shoes, hemp through its nose. "
Nanyue notes
Records: "Oaklet wood with pine root, sweet and tough, can be used as clogs, say oaklet fragrant clogs." The hipster scoop is the clog, the light and soft, is the tide clog." And he said, "Yuezhong
Maidservant 媵
Many red leather clogs, scholar-officials are still clogs. When bathing in the cool, scatter the feet, called "scatter shoes". The loose clogs are made in Chaozhou
[62]
.
Grass 屦
It was made by the Yellow Emperor's minister, the straw sandals
[63]
. The boots came from King Wuling of Zhao
A horse shot in a Hu suit
. Chaozhou clogs, Hangzhou village
Embroidered shoes
craft
[64]
Pizhou embroidered shoes and Pizhou linen woven shoes have been included in the intangible cultural heritage
[65]
.
Foot coat
-
First Server
Headwear is one of the important parts of Han nationality dress. The ancient Han men and women would tie their hair into a bun and pin it on their heads when they were adults. The main headwear is hat, scarf and so on. The main hats are
Gauze cap
,
cowl
Hats, scarves, etc
Silk scarf
,
Netting towel
Let's wait.
Men often wear crowns, scarves, hats, etc., in a variety of shapes. The common ones are mainly crown, Sana and head. In the Han Dynasty, people in positions generally wrap a headband first and then wear a crown, while civilians only wrap a headband without wearing a crown, and use a white towel (gauze) to wrap their head when celebrating, and usually only wear a small hat and straw hat. In the Tang Dynasty, hats were mainly used, with white scarves wrapped around the head 幞 hair. In the Song Dynasty, iron wire head appeared, while the groom wore a broken wing head, the messenger wore a right Angle head, and the common people wore cool hats and bamboo hats in summer, and deep-brimmed hats and dust hats in winter
[66]
In the Song and Yuan dynasties, there were many kinds of turbans, such as dome turbans, square turbans, qin turbans, gauze turbans, silk turbans, Dongpo turbans, Chengzi turbans, and hilltop turbans. There were many kinds of hats in the Ming Dynasty, and they varied from person to person
[67]
.
Women's first dress is mainly composed of deputy and compilation. The bun can be combed into a variety of styles, and the bun is worn with beads, steps and other accessories. Temples on both sides decorated with Bo temples, there are also wearing a cap, covering the head
[9]
[60]
. Han women are known as the eight major jewelry, respectively, hairpin, comb, Hua sheng, step shaking, gold mother-of-pearl, pearl, lezi (forehead pa). Dibun is a combination of gold and silver jewelry of eight jewels. In the Song and Yuan Dynasties, in addition to ornaments such as hair, there is a very prominent feature that is wearing a crown
[68]
. Head socket
comb
It has been recorded since the Han Dynasty. Women in the Southern Dynasties loved to put ornaments on their buns
Comb bar
. Women were popular in the Tang Dynasty
Hairpin comb
. In the Northern Song Dynasty, women in the palace mostly installed white horn long comb on the crown, and later passed to the folk, there are
chignon
A comb ornament. Song Ci says:
bun
Cloud comb. Women in the Ming Dynasty dress up with their heads covered
Hairpin comb
. Han women and Dai
Silk flower
The custom is called "treasure bun.
Head-pinned flowers
Flowers ". The Ming Dynasty Kong Fu set up tenant flowers in Dazhuang, all the year round for Kong Fu decoration and lady, miss put on, drill the crown of the maid wearing costume silk flowers.
filigree
It is a unique Han jewelry craft that reached a superb artistic level in the Ming Dynasty to Chengdu
Honeysuckle silk
Craftsmanship and Beijing
Silk Mosaic technology
represent
[69]
.
First Server
-
accessory
The Han nationality
One of the important characteristics of human decoration is that it likes to decorate jade. And accessories like
Cover knee
,
swathe
, socks, skirts,
sachet
(
sachet
), sword,
ribbon
,
print
, Scepter
Ivory block
,
Leather strap
,
Jade belt
,
銙
,
Winged snake
And so on
[9]
. The waist decoration mainly includes 黼, jade, seal, ribbon, fish, card, and other accessories
[70]
. The furniture for storing Hanfu is called
suitcase
Hang Hanfu
Clothes hanger
call
Clothes boom
[71]
.
|
accessory
|
Intangible cultural heritage
|
|---|---|
|
accessory
|
Peking
Silk Mosaic technology
, Chengdu
Honeysuckle silk
Production skills,
The art of filigree making
,
Beijing silk flower
Technology,
Changzhou comb
,
Qionghai
Dongpo
Dai li
|
-
Decorative pattern
Animal, plant and geometric patterns are used in the decorative patterns of Han clothing. The expression of patterns has roughly experienced several stages, such as abstract, standardized to realistic. The patterns before Shang and Zhou dynasties, like the original Chinese characters, are more concise, generalized and abstract. From the Zhou Dynasty to the Tang and Song dynasties, the patterns were increasingly neat, balanced up and down, symmetrical left and right, and the pattern layout was strict. Ming and Qing dynasties, has paid attention to
realistic
Techniques, a variety of animals, plants, are often depicted delicate, realistic, lifelike, as if directly picked from real life, without any processing, fully showing the diligence and wisdom of the Han people
[2]
.
-
hue
Classical fabrics are dyed in compliance
Ancient system
embodies
Yin-yang and five elements
Faith. There are "black earth, white earth, terra cotta earth, blue earth, loess"
[72]
"Heaven is called the dark, the earth is called the yellow, the green and white phase is also, the red and black phase is also, the dark and yellow phase is also." Green and red called the text, red and white called the chapter, white and black called the 黼, black feather green called the match, colorful preparation called the embroidery. ... The place of four times and five colors is called skillful by the chapter."
[73]
"The king is easy to be appointed, must be careful at the beginning, correction, easy to wear color"
[74]
The record of...
There are six images and six colors: green is like wood in the East, red is like fire in the south, white is like gold in the west, black is like water in the north, dark is like heaven, yellow is like earth
[73]
[75-76]
. In addition to the six normal colors, there are corresponding intermediate colors: ð« [yellow red], purple [cyan red], red [red white], green [cyan yellow
Pale green
[blue and white]. The interval color is also after the northern and Southern Dynasties
Public service
Color system: red, purple, crimson, green, green, such as the Tang Dynasty for three or more wear purple official clothes, four with deep crimson, five with light crimson, six with dark green, seven with light green, eight with dark blue, nine with light blue
[77]
. In addition, Kang [deep blue Yang red], Fei [Chi], Jiang [Dachi], Ti [Danhuang], Zhu [deep ð«
The traditional choice of dress color has obvious class division. Since the Tang Dynasty, yellow has long been regarded as a noble color, and only the sons of heaven and dignitaries can wear it. The color of ancient Hanfu is dark, followed by light, so formal dresses often use deep woven cotton pattern, and one color is the main tone, decorated with bright and gorgeous embroidery. Light colors are often used in civilian clothes
[8]
Thus have
A surname
,
commoner
,
Black cloth
,
Student's dress in ancient times
,
Cyan shirt
,
Ochre cloth
Say.
-
Cultural connotation
Hanfu is developed from the clothes of "Yellow Emperor Yao and Shun hang clothes and rule the world". The ancient six suits of the Son of Heaven, the six suits of the queen, the Confucian costume and the sword costume are located at the center of the Hanfu system and have been followed for more than 4,000 years. The crown suit is the root of the Hanfu, but also the most can reflect the "Jedi heaven" of the Chinese belief, but also the Han people for thousands of years to worship the gods and ancestors, and the earth and the auspicious clothing.
The combination of the six clothes of the Emperor and the six clothes of the Queen not only symbolizes the great dozens of days, but also represents the heaven and the earth and the three hours and five elements of heaven respectively, so as to represent the two basic clothing systems of the Hanfu - the clothes system and the deep clothes system.
Mianfu
Mianfu
|
Clothes system
|
The Son of Heaven six clothes
[78]
|
Day/dry
|
Three periods
(Sun, moon and stars)
|
||||||
|
Deep clothing system
|
Queen's dress
[79]
|
Earth
|
Five elements
(Wood, fire, earth, gold and water)
|
Confucius in the state of Lu, from the Zhou Gong Yan house clothes, long lived in the state of Song, the crown of Zhang Fu
[80]
. "
A surname
"Zhi Guan" refers to a kind of Yin crown, called by the Zhou Dynasty
Veneer crown
or
Cambric crown
The crown of governing the government
[81]
. Zhuang Zi mentioned it
Confucian clothing
And the samurai costume
swordsuit
[82]
. Therefore, Confucian clothing became later generations
Taoist robe
. Therefore, the Confucian costume and sword costume became the civil and military officials of the Chinese dynasty, also
Literati and officialdom
and
warrior
The basic system of Hanfu.
|
Stats
|
Server name
|
alias
|
Apparel system
|
First Server
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
wen
|
Confucian clothing
(scholar-official clothing)
|
Fongye
robe
|
||
|
wu
|
swordsuit
(Samurai costume)
|
Short back coat
|
Hakama pleat
(Small sleeve short jacket and large Hakama)
|
Hanfu is a traditional national costume inherited by the Han people for more than 4,000 years, and it is a system of crown clothing in the Four Books and Five Classics
Confucianist
The classic
The Book of Songs
""
A surname
""
The rites of Zhou
""
The Book of Rites
""
The Book of Changes
""
Spring and Autumn
In the Tang Dynasty
Opening ceremony
", the twenty-four Histories of Geography, and others
Classics and history subset
As a necessary component of the inherited ritual culture. The Hanfu system shows the hierarchical culture, kinship culture, political culture, the importance of the legitimate state over the ordinary state, the importance of the long state over the young, and the Confucian thought of benevolence and justice. In ancient China
Patriarchal culture
Under the background, the dress has the function of distinguishing the name, distinguishing the prestige and other dignities, and it is the dress of the auspicious ceremony, the fierce ceremony, the binli ceremony, the military ceremony and the Jia ceremony. Except for the etiquette of state affairs, ordinary Han people
Family ritual
Including the crown, wedding, funeral and four rites. The Four Books and Five Classics give a detailed description of the Hanfu dress.
The general style of Han clothing for thousands of years is light and simple, paying attention to the unity of nature and man. The ancient robes of the Han nationality can best reflect this style, the main feature of which is the toga. Big sleeves, bright clothes and belts. From the silk paintings of the Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties, we can see one or two of its features: the simple Han costume coat attached to the figures of different bodies suddenly has a fresh vitality, soft and smooth lines. The robes fully embody the national character of the Han people, which is soft and comfortable, elegant and detached, and composed, as well as the aesthetic taste of plain and natural, subtle and euphemistic, elegant and fresh.
To the most typical
Deep clothing
For example, its shape must conform to "rules, moments, ropes, and trade-offs". A total of 12 pieces of cloth are used in the hem of deep clothes, which should have the meaning of December in a year, reflecting the strong idea of law, and the sleeves are circular in order to meet the rules, and the collar is rectangular in order to meet the square, which means that a person should have rules, and the so-called no rules are not a radius. The straps hang down very long, down to the ankles, representing integrity, and the bottom is flush with the ground, representing balance. It contains a lot of Confucianism. When people wear Hanfu, they will naturally pay attention to their words and deeds, which shows that Hanfu contains considerable cultural connotation, and the influence of ethics and morality is fully reflected in the clothing by the philosophical thoughts of "Confucianism, Taoism, ink and Fa". The pursuit of peace and nature, peace from the public, generous realm of love, shaped the "Hanfu" heaven and man unity, elegant and free style. "Hanfu" also reflects the wearer's generosity, easygoing and tolerance of the world
[8]
.
At the same time, there is a close relationship between Hanfu and filial piety culture. Such as "the Book of Rites" stipulates that when the parents are alive, the child's crown should not be white, if the father died, after the funeral, other children dressed there is no special taboo, but the legitimate son still can not wear clothes with color or use color cloth edge
[83]
. In addition, there are five garments, namely:
dwindle
(cu),
Uniform fading
(z? cu?),
Great service
,
Minor merit
,
Fine linen
[84]
.
-
Use of etiquette
Hanfu is a necessary part of Chinese etiquette. China is also known as"
Huaxia
The origin of the name is related to Hanfu. "
Uphold justice
Note:"
Mianfu
Hua Zhang said Hua, big country said summer." "Zuo Zhuan justice · Ding Gong Ten years" sparse: "China has etiquette, so called summer; The beauty of a dress is called China." Since ancient times, China has been called"
Dress up the country
,
A land of ritual
", and "clothing" has become a synonym for civilization, but also a part of Chinese etiquette. The rites of Zhou rites are divided into five rites and eight principles, including:
Auspicious gift
,
Fierce ceremony
,
Present ceremony
,
Military salute
,
Wedding ceremony
[85]
; The eight principles include:
Capping ceremony
,
Wedding
,
funeral
,
Sacrificial rites
,
Hometown gift
,
salaam
,
A surname
,
bride-price
. Crown ceremony and wedding ceremony are the core of Jia Li. Sacrificial rites are auspicious rites. "Zhu Zi Tong Meng Notice" said, "the learning of the husband Tong Meng begins with clothes and shoes." Dress is the beginning of etiquette. Before the crown ceremony, "clothes no silk trousers". You can only wear fur and silk when you are twenty
[86]
.
Capping ceremony
It is a rite of passage for men, and the children are turned into children
General hair
Wear the crown.
Zhou Dynasty
The year of the scholar-official and the twentieth line of crown ceremony, the year of the prince and the fifteenth line of crown. "Li Ji · Guan Yi" said: "Already crown and ambition, the way of adult is also". After the three princes and the crown prince, they will add Xuanmian again.
Hair-pinning ceremony
It is a woman's coming-of-age ceremony, that is, pull the hair behind the head to do a bun, with a hairpin. Zheng Xuan notes the "Ceremonial Shizuguan Ceremony" said: "hair-pinning female ceremony still crown male also, so that the main woman to perform its ceremony." The girl who has been married is held at the age of 15
Hair-pinning ceremony
If you are not allowed to marry, it will be held at the age of 20. According to the "Rites of the History of Song", the hairpin ceremony of the princess of the Song Dynasty is imitatured to the concubine's crown. The ceremony consists of three crowns and costumes: the first plus the crown and then the crown 朶, three plus nine four Fengguan
[87]
.
Hair-pinning ceremony
Hair-pinning ceremony
Wedding is one of the rites, can be divided into ritual wedding, court wedding, public wedding. In the Tang and Song systems, men were married with coronas for more than four products, with jue bens for more than nine products, and with Jiang Gong for the concubine. The woman is married in ceremonial clothes or with her dress
[88]
.
Sacrifice is the ritual system of offering sacrifices to gods and ancestors, which is the highest etiquette in China. The ritual consists of six crowns and a saguaro. A deacon's robe, his own. The wife of a scholar is clothed 褖 as a deacon
[89]
.
Han people's recognition of Han clothing is part of their national consciousness.
Five wild flowers
When the original in
Central plains
The intellectuals and people from all walks of life fled to the south, retained the spark of the Central Plains civilization, and gradually developed Jiangnan into a prosperous and prosperous place.
Dress to cross the south
". Song Dynasty
Guo Jing
Not willing to give up his clothes and commit suicide
[90]
.
Hanfu has a profound influence due to the spread of Huaxia Confucian Wang Dao culture, including many other surrounding ethnic groups
Confucian cultural circle
(
Han culture circle
The state borrowed some features of the Hanfu by imitating the Chinese etiquette system, and used it for good or bad luck. In addition, the Chinese ceremony also stipulates that the king of four Yi must wear native clothing before the son of China, that is, "the Bo Lord to its obedience.
National uniform
". In the vassal system of Han and Tang dynasties, there existed the so-called "dynasty collection" system in which the leaders of the surrounding ethnic groups regularly appeared before the emperor. Whether foreign monarchs and their emissaries or officials pay homage to the Son of Heaven of China, accept official posts, contribute offerings, or the son of Heaven of China invites foreign monarchs, foreign monarchs must wear state clothes and offer ceremonies
[91]
. The national uniform system has prompted the surrounding ethnic groups to form their own national costumes. For example, the Khitan Taizong entered the Jin Dynasty, came into contact with the Central Plains clothing system, and after returning to the north, developed the national clothing and Han clothing system with reference to the Central Plains clothing system
[92]
. There are books written in successive dynasties.
Tribute map
"Depicts the costumes of other countries
[93]
.
-
Xianbei (a county in Shanxi Province)
北魏孝文帝
Xianbei clothing is prohibited, and all are changed to Hanfu.
Xianbei clothing is prohibited, and all are changed to Hanfu; Xianbei is forbidden to speak, and Chinese is the prevailing language; Whoever moves to
Luoyang
the
Xianbei people
All shall be in Luoyang as their native place, and shall be buried in Luoyang after death, and shall not be buried in Pingcheng
[94]
.
-
Japan
kimono
In Japan, it is called "Zhe Wu" or "Wu Fu", meaning from China
Wu area
Clothing from Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Japanese-based
Nara period
In the Tang Dynasty of China, Japan sent a large number of them
Envoy to the Tang Dynasty
Go to China to learn Chinese culture, art, legal system, which also includes the dress system. At that time, they also issued the "Dress Order" and "Pension Order" imitating the Tang Dynasty's court dress system for the Zhou ceremony such as enthronement ceremony, crown ceremony and wedding ceremony. Emperor Motoshimasa ordered all Japan to switch to the right side
[95-96]
.
At the end of the Peace period, the Wu family grew in power and made formal dresses modeled on public costumes
Hunting clothes
, Everyday Clothes
Water drying
. In addition, straight line, shoulder, 裃. From the middle to the late Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate advocated
Confucianism
Carried out the restoration of the retro Tembo "costume imperial revival" movement, reviving businessism, Japan
There are old jobs
The family began to examine the costume and revived the dyeing technique of the emperor's yellow robe.
Tokugawa Ieyasu
The "Forbidden and Public Law" stipulated the clothing system of the emperor and his ministers, leading the restoration of ceremonies.
Shoyoshi Tokugawa
There was also a "Taboo Decree" modeled after China's mourning clothing system. At the same time, Japan also followed the Central Plains scholar-officials' method of researching Hanfu, through the system of businessism
Akashido
,
Kikino
Textual research on the Confucian classics as well
Yuki Somi
The family inherited the costume and formed the clothing system with Japanese characteristics.
Mikado
,
Emperor Takamin
Even restored the crown to take
Enthronement ceremony
.
Textual research recovery
Twelve orders
Japan
Edo period
The "Costume Essentials Copy" admitted: "The royal Stables began to settle the crown position of twelve great treasures to fall, along the Tang clothing and its making is very similar. The state of China also began in the Han Dynasty and flourished in the Tang Dynasty. The court ordered the good officials to follow the ancient clothes 徃 and compromise with the system of Han and Tang dynasties, and those who were good followed the bad did nothing. The cultural relics of this state are not easy to 1,000 years old. Such as
Song Jinglian
Mistakenly said: "thousands of years still effect, Han clothing is Yuan."
[97]
. The ancient history of this country is also based on the system of Han and Tang Dynasties. So the husband saint world for the clothing and the United States custom, to the right up and down etiquette, people without etiquette is what people? Isn't it urgent?"
[98]
Tokugawa Ieyasu
Will Ogasawara Rishi for the official school since, through
Vassal school
Lectures spread Ogasawara Rishi widely. In 1632, the Ogasawara Kai Shu was published. The practice used by Edo in Japan is taki
Zhu Zi family gift
Influenced by the Takeya Ogasawara Rishi and the Ise Rishi Rishi, this is the basis of modern Japanese etiquette and modern kimono. The Qing also believed that Japanese clothes were the same as Han clothes
[99]
. 1938-1939 "Complete Ritual Practice" 9, published in Japan in 1941
Education Ministry
The Basic Items of the Ritual Law were formulated and the Ogasawara ritual law was popularized, including clothing and etiquette (Guan wedding and burial ceremony). The ninth chapter of the Basic Items of the Ritual Law stipulates that civilian men's winter dress striped and woven hakama, summer yukata and women's dress, visiting clothes, etc.
-
North Korea
During the Tang Dynasty,
Silla
request
Emperor Taizong of Tang
Give Han clothes, get rid of Silla clothes, like China
[100]
. After the middle of the Korean dynasty, Li's court clothes absorbed the clothing patterns of the Ming Dynasty and learned to comply with the Chinese system
[101]
. Especially the female costume dynasty
High-waisted ruqun
In addition, official uniforms, court uniforms, and important court gowns have always retained the Hanfu system and changed with the changes of Hanfu. For example, in the Tang Dynasty, the back strap of official Wusha head was droopy belt style, and that of Silla official head was the same style. After the Ming Dynasty, it was changed to the flanged style, and in the Li Dynasty, it was changed to the short flanged style. Such as Li Dynasty Queen dress has always been the empress of China
debugging
Style. The main difference between the modern dynasty dress and the Han dress: the Han dress is generally the right side of the collar, there is also a front (V-neck), and the North Korean dress collar is not obvious, approximately small V-neck; Women's skirts are particularly high, and the hemline is very large and fluffy.
-
Vietnam
Old Vietnamese name
coxtoe
(China calls it
Annam
In 968,
t-neck
(butyl ring) establishment
Ding Dynasty
(The kingdom of Da Qu Yue) began to become independent
Feudal dynasty
Two years later (970) he proclaimed himself emperor. In terms of dress, especially the court dress, the court dress of the emperor and the minister, it is almost China
Han dynasty
The court dress, the emperor, the minister of the court dress version, try to Vietnam's last emperor Bao Da's crown, the robe, and the Ming Dynasty
suzerain
The clothes are the same, but the shape is only one size smaller than that of the Ming emperor. Taking the official dress of the Han Dynasty emperor - the crown pendant as an example, the crown pendant of the Ming Dynasty emperor is twelve pendants, Vietnam is six pendants. For more than two hundred years in the Qing Dynasty, Vietnam, which is connected with the mountains and rivers of southern China, still has a good preservation of Ming style clothing, which can be clearly reflected in many precious photos and a large number of historical materials left by French colonists in Vietnam from the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, such as the settlement in 1898
Yunnan Province
(now
Kunming
The French consul
Fonsuya
(1857.8.20-1935.7.4)
Dragon robe
The photo of the ancient emperor is mistaken by many for the dragon robe or
Chinese opera
In fact, the clothes Fang Suya wears are the court clothes of the Vietnamese emperor, and from the shape of the Ming Dynasty, the court clothes of the emperor and minister are generally no two.
China once enjoyed the reputation of "the country of clothes", one of the most important reasons is the fabric of Hanfu, that is, silk.
Silk Road
After the opening, China's
Silk goods
The continuous transport to the West made silk the envy of Asian and European countries. In the early spread, Byzantium occupied an extremely important position and played a role in connecting China and the West.
The Byzantine Empire
The clothing styles and patterns of the period had an important impact on Western countries, of course, the so-called
The Byzantine Empire
In fact, the clothing style and decoration are already the product of the combination of Eastern and Western clothing art.
In 748 AD,
Little Brothel Country
Wang Su defeat Zhi arrived
Chang 'an
He was given purple and gold robes and gold belts, and in 780 AD, he stayed in Chang 'an. At that time, more than 2,000 people from all over the world wore Tang clothes in Chinese style and lived with Han people. These people brought the Tang Dynasty clothes back to China, directly brought the Tang Dynasty clothing system and costumes, spread the Tang Dynasty clothes and the prestige of Chinese clothes mainly Han clothing to the world, and demonstrated the charm of Chinese culture. At the same time, the Chinese clothing mainly composed of Hanfu also absorbed the components of many other countries' clothing
[102]
.
