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Silk
With about 5,000 years of verifiable history,
Chinese nation
Our ancestors not only invented silk, but also developed and used silk. People commonly use
Silks and satins
To describe what a person is wearing
magnificent
with
Wealth and rank
Silks and satins are actually four types of silk varieties. Silk fabrics are classified in this way, according to the fabric structure, the combination of longitude and latitude, processing technology, the appearance and texture of the silk surface can be divided into 14 categories and 34 subcategories. Silk has the function of health care and skin care, and is very popular in the domestic and foreign clothing market
favor
.
- Chinese name
- Silk goods
- Foreign name
- silk
- Biyu
- Second skin
- serve
- Protection skin Moist, anti-aging The role of.
China was the first country in the world to raise silkworm and silkworm
reeling
The country of silk weaving, China has made it in clothing, economy, art and culture are exuding brilliant light, and then make silk clothing around the world.
Known as the three daimyo brocade in ancient times
Sichuan brocade
, Suzhou
Song brocade
,
Nanjing brocade
It is an excellent representative of silk fabrics and still enjoys a high reputation in the world. Therefore, silk, in a sense, represents the long and splendid culture of China.
will
Raw silk
As warp silk and weft silk, the process of interweaving silk fabrics is
Silk weaving
Craft. The production process of various types of silk fabrics is not the same, and can be divided into
Raw weaving
And cooked woven two kinds. Raw weaving is the first warp and weft silk without refining and dyeing fabric, called the billet silk, and then the billet silk refining and dyeing into the finished product. This production method has low cost and short process, and is the main method used in silk weaving production. Mature weaving means that the warp and weft silk is dyed before weaving, and the green silk after weaving does not need to be dyed again to become a finished product. This method is mostly used for the production of high-grade silk fabrics, such as weaving
damask
,
taffeta
Let's wait.
Before weaving, it is necessary to make preparations, such as making
sericin
Softening dips, twining and twisting to improve product performance, and
warping
,
quilling
Let's wait. Also, due to silk
hygroscopicity
Strong, but also do moisture-proof work.
Silk weaving
The main automatic looms used in production are: for the production of synthetic fibers
Filament fabric
the
Water jet loom
And used in the production of multi-colored weft jacquard fabrics
Rapier loom
.
Silk fabrics from the pattern pattern can be divided into simple plain weave and complex
Figured fabric
Two kinds.
Be used to...
Mulberry silk
The silk made of raw materials is characterized by bi-directional fine wrinkles on the silk surface, so it is called
Crepe de chine
. The warp of crepe de chine is 20/22D2 silk with no twist, and the weft is 20/22D2-4 silk with S and Z strong twist.
Plain weave
Interleaved grey silk, refined and degummed, due to S and Z
Direction of twist
In the cross of the weft line and the warp line without twist, the weft direction is twisted to each other, so the wrinkles of the beauty of the fine twist of the two different twists are reflected on the silk surface. Crepe de chine has many specifications and complete sets.
breadth
There are 70, 90, 100, 114, 140cm. The weight is 8.5, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22m/m. Available in pure white, dyed and printed. Suitable for men's and women's shirts, can also do a variety of embroidered clothes, a wide range of uses. China Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Sichuan, Guangdong, Shandong and other silk production areas have production, and exported to the world. It is an important variety of Chinese silk production and export, accounting for me
Real silk
Silk production and exports total 15% and 10% more.
Crepe de chine
Due to the characteristics of many, lack of good quality, wide use, popular, Sheng sales.
Be used to...
jacquard
make
Meridian and parallel
Interleaved points woven into various patterns of silk, is a large category of silk, is a different category of printed silk printed with patterns on the silk surface. Among them, crepe de chine jacquard on the warp of crepe de chine, crepe satin jacquard on the silk warp, jacquard on the spun warp, and so on. And jacquard on all kinds of silk warp, yes
damask
,
Satin brocade
In particular, there is a jacquard printed on the silk, that is, the combination of jacquard printed silk.
Jacquard silk
In addition to the famous Chinese traditional varieties of brocade,
Antique satin
In addition to Klee satin, Gold treasure Ground, swan velvet, etc., there are contemporary flower crepe satin, Wanshou satin,
Jiuxia satin
Flower wide Hank, flower soft satin, etc. Jacquard and printed silk is also popular in Western Europe.
A variety of jacquard silk, can adapt to a variety of internal and external clothing and decoration needs, there are used for underwear, outerwear and dress, there are used for quilt, bed cover and chair cover, can also be used for pasting walls and various decorative. The use of silk jacquard silk as pasted wall silk is not only beautiful and generous, but also has the function of absorbing air and adjusting indoor temperature. China's production areas all produce jacquard silk, accounting for more than 35% of our total silk production, accounting for about 20% of silk exports.
Chinese jacquard silk has many varieties and colors, and is widely welcomed by consumers at home and abroad.
therefore
Mulberry silk
First refined and degummed into silk
Boiled-off silk
) Warp and weft lines, with
Plain weave
Woven silk first chain, also known as cooked goods. Taffeta, striped taffeta and floral taffeta are three kinds of traditional varieties that are famous in the world in China, and are also specialty varieties in Suzhou and Hangzhou in China. Especially Suzhou Dongwu silk weaving factory production
taffeta
Collectively known as the "Tower King".
peculiarity
Because its warp and weft lines are specially processed. Such as
longitude
Is 20/22D mulberry silk 1 first add S twist 800T/m, and then 2 combined add 2 twist 600T/m; The weft is 20/22D mulberry silk with 1 S-twisted 600T/m, and then 3 combined with working twist 600T/m. Then refined by weft and weft, woven into taffeta. Therefore, the warp and weft interlace points are tight, the gap is small, the silk surface appears unusually flat, and because the warp and weft lines have been specially processed, the body bone of the silk is firm and soft. The width and weight of plain, strip, getaf or flower tower silk can be arranged according to needs, commonly 90cm, 13.5m /m, but also 100, 114cm, 12, 16m/m, etc.
taffeta
It is the top quality of women's dress, and women in Europe and America and many regions like it very much. However, the taffeta production process is complex, the output is not much, and the supply can only be limited, which is more valuable and rare.
- 1.
Crepe de chine : Just use Plain weave Without twist, two left and two right weft Hard twist A fabric with a uniform crepe effect.
- 2.
georgette : The application of plain fabric, warp and weft using two left and two right strong twist silk, texture balance thin thin, silk surface with yarn eyes and crepe effect fabric.
- 3.
Crepe crepe Without twist, crepe crepe yarn (20/22Dx3 plus S twist 1600T/m, and then 20/22D1, plus Z twist 1600T/m), is a fine wrinkle fabric.
- 4.
Weft: fabric made of untwisted, single-sided strongly twisted silk with a straight wrinkled surface.
- 5.
Tuff: The use of plain weave, warp and weft first dyed, fine and crisp texture of cooked fabric.
- 6.
habutai : silk &tracelog=pd_info_promo" target="_blank; Mulberry silk (tussah in silk) raw weaving tabby Textiles.
- 7.
Thin spinning: The application of mulberry silk woven, square meter silk weight of 6g/m and below plain fabric.
- 8.
Silk spinning : Plain silk fabric with warp and weft.
- 9.
Silk: plain fabric made of silk drawn on both warp and weft.
- 10.
- 11.
- 12.
- 13.
Rib: Fabric with a light horizontal stripe on one or both sides.
- 14.
Fancy thread: Fabric made in whole or in part of fancy twisted or coloured thread.
- 15.
Stripe: Fabric with a horizontal stripe pattern.
- 16.
Lattice: Fabric with a lattice pattern on the silk surface.
- 17.
Cool: The application of fake yarn structure to form a transparent fabric with similar gauze eyes.
- 18.
Yarn-dyed: Fabric made entirely or partly of coloured silk.
- 19.
Double-sided: The application of triple organization, both sides have the same type twill or Satin weave Of the fabric.
- 20.
Embossing: Fabric with embossing patterns.
- 21.
The shape of a mountain; The use of mountain or zigzag twill weave, the distinctive mountain or zigzag flower shape of the fabric.
- 22.
Flowers: jacquard fabrics.
- 23.
Trim: trimmed jacquard fabric.
- 24.
Light: pure rayon fabric with light viscose silk or semi-light copper ammonia silk.
- 25.
Matt: pure rayon fabric made of matt viscose silk or matt copper ammonia silk.
- 26.
Flash: The use of light ultra light profile synthetic fiber filament pure woven or interwoven, showing a flash effect of the fabric.
- 27.
Light: The use of gold and silver money (aluminum skin) pure woven or interwoven, a light effect of the fabric.
- 28.
- 29.
Special dyeing: warp or weft silk using special dyeing process such as tie dyeing, with two colors and tie dyeing effect of fabric.
- 30.
Warp: Fabric woven after silk printing.
- 31.
Brushed: fabric that has been brushed and finished.
- 32.
Velvet: fabric finished with velvet.
- 33.
Kimono: The door width is below 40cm, or the entire width is woven with each of the cutting seams below 40cm, for processing kimono supplies.
Silks and satins
all
Silk weaving
Many varieties of modern silk use the old names, such as crepe, twill, old silk, and some foreign words are also used, such as
georgette
(georgette)
taffeta
(taffeta), etc. According to the organization structure, the use of raw materials, processing technology, texture, appearance and the main use of different classification.
Ancient silk fabrics basically press
Fabric texture
, fabric pattern, fabric color naming. Modern silk uses a lot of old names, such as crepe, twill, silk, and also uses some foreign words, such as
georgette
(georgette)
taffeta
(taffeta), etc. At present, according to the organizational structure of silk fabrics, raw materials, processing technology, texture, appearance and main uses, it can be divided into 14 categories, such as yarn, silk, twill, silk, spinning, gauze, crepe, brocade, satin, old, cotton, velvet and silk.
- 1.
yarn : Wholly or partly adopted by warp A woven silk fabric with evenly distributed holes (i.e., "eyes") formed by the skein, also known as plain yarn.
- 2.
ROM. : The use of rosette weaving to make the surface of the fabric with gauze holes Rayon silk It is characterized by elegant fabric style, tight texture, strong, ventilated yarn holes, cool, comfortable to wear, cool, is a good summer material. Have existed in ancient times leno In the last volume fifty-one of the Annals of Zuo Ji, there is a description of Luo as "weaker than Luo Xi light Feifei".
- 3.
twill : Apply Twill weave The silk surface is obviously inclined grain of the fabric, the general texture is light. In ancient times has been used for painting, embroidery and brocade fabric. Because the surface is stacked mountain slope, "look like the reason of ice" so called twill. Some are used for painting and calligraphy mounting, brocade box packaging, and some are used for clothing.
- 4.
- 5.
spinning : Using plain weave, warp and weft without twist or weak twist, thin, soft silk fabric.
- 6.
kam : The use of heavy organization, with multi-color silk woven into the gorgeous Yarn-dyed jacquard Silk fabric. Jin is famous Jacquard silk In ancient times, there is a saying that "weaving for writing, its price is like gold". There are Sichuan brocade , Song brocade , brocade A point of...
- 7.
satin : Satin is applied Satin weave Silk surface smooth and bright fabrics, many varieties, a wide range of uses, suitable for all kinds of clothing. Satin fabric is the silk products processing technology is the most complex, the fabric appearance is the most colorful, the most advanced level of the broad category of varieties. Everyday we often have flowers Soft satin , Satin plain , damask , Antique satin The same kind.
- 8.
didi : Adopt Plain weave The use of long silk as warp, cotton or other yarns as weft, thick texture, clear weave silk fabric. well-trained Thready cotton , Fancy thimble A point of...
- 9.
ge : Using plain weave, Twill weave And its change of organization, the warp weft thin, thin weft thick, the surface of the fabric presents transverse shuttle, thick texture of silk fabric.
- 10.
? : The use of various tissues, the application of thicker warp and weft thread, rich texture, woolly silk fabric.
- 11.
Cloth with soft nap : Adopted in whole or in part Raising tissue A silk fabric with a surface of a pile or circle.
- 12.
silk Silk is the most important type of silk fabric, is the application tabby Or change of organization, warp and weft intertwine tight fabric, which is characterized by a smooth silk surface, smooth feel, a wide range of uses. "Silk" is also often used as a general term for silk, such as silk, satin, can also be a word "silk" on behalf of silk goods; Also useful rayon It is called artificial silk.
- 13.
gauze : Silk fabric with plain or false yarn structure, light texture, showing perforation.
- 14.
crepe : Adopt Plain weave Or other tissue, the application of warp and weft strengthening twist and other processes, the fabric presents a wrinkle effect of silk fabrics. Its characteristics are: silk surface with reversible two-way wrinkles, soft luster, feel elastic, anti-crepe effect is good.
The numbering of silk fabrics is represented by three digits.
International clothing modeling usually adopts a unified logo, the logo letter symbol means:
H means that the clothing you buy is vertical, and there is no obvious curve on the body. The visual highlight is loose, giving people a relaxed feeling of stretching and not fitting. This kind of clothing can highlight the beautiful figure.
V indicates that the clothing style is jacket type or denim type, worn on the body, it can make the body feel visually wide and narrow, and the spirit is free and easy.
X means that the clothing style has shoulders, but it is waist, there is a hem, wear it can fully show the slim body, make people appear spirit and ability.
O Clothing style belongs to the more avant-garde and fashionable "Peng peng" type clothing, giving a person to highlight the rounded, the feeling of contraction. How to identify fabric
Domestic silk and satin shall adopt the unified product number formulated by China National Silk Corporation. The article number consists of five Arabic digits, with the first digit representing the type of material used in the fabric:
(04) stands for tussah silk, including tussah spun silk
(06) represents the interweaving of more than two raw materials, including filament interweaving, filament and staple fiber interweaving
(07) Different from 1-6, it represents quilt products.
02, the second digit represents the name of the major categories, such as silk, spinning, crepe, silk, satin, brocade, silk, twill, silk, cotton, cotton, cotton, silk, silk, cloth, etc.
03, the third digit represents the serial number of the silk specification. representative
Such as:
B Beijing
C Sichuan
D Liaoning
E Hubei
G Guangdong
H Zhejiang
J Jiangxi
K Jiangsu
M Fujian
Q Shaanxi
N Guangxi
S Shanghai
T Tianjin
V Henan
W Anhui
X Hunan
Silk fabrics are labeled, from the label number, you can identify the product's raw materials and origin.
Around 5,000 years ago
Prehistoric times
,
Yellow River basin
The dawn of silk had already appeared. By the time of Shang and Zhou Dynasties, silk was already well developed. With the great economic development of the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, silk production reached a peak. 126 BC, in
Emperor Wu of Han
"Under the westward policy, large quantities of Chinese silk passed through."
Silk Road
"Transport west. After the development of the Wei, Jin and Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, Chinese silk has undergone great changes, on the one hand, it is consistent and eclectic traditional heritage, on the other hand, it is compatible with the advantages of foreign technology and patterns. In the Song and Yuan Dynasties, with the high development of ancient science and technology, silk production technology was greatly promoted, and the focus of silk production was transferred from the Yellow River basin to the South of the Yangtze River. By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Suzhou and Hangzhou in the south of the Yangtze River became the most important silk producing area, a number of typical silk professional towns were developed, and official weaving was becoming more and more mature. At this time, China's silk developed to the most active period. Since 1804, China's silk industry began to move toward modernization. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, China's silk industry has developed rapidly, and a relatively complete silk industry system has been built. Silk products have been sold to more than 100 countries and regions around the world. Under the new situation of reform and opening up, China's ancient silk is showing new youth and moving towards a brilliant future.
Pure silk fabric is elegant pearl luster, feel soft and elegant; Chemical fiber fabric luster bright, dazzling, feel stiff. Although some imitation silk fabrics feel soft, but the silk surface is dark, no pearl luster. ① Whether the fabric body bones are crisp and loose; ② the smoothness and roughness of the fabric surface; ③ the softness and hardness of the fabric; ④ the thinness and thickness of the fabric; ⑤ Cold and warm fabric; ⑥ The fabric has a feeling of irritation and less irritation to the skin. For example: touch the real silk products have a cool feeling; Pure wool fabric has a warm feeling; Feel fine and smooth Dacron
Cotton fabric
mostly
High-count yarn
Made of woven copy; A fabric with a rough feel and mostly low yarn count.
In addition, people can also use the role of force, hand stretching, scratching and other actions, and then through the eye observation, hand feeling, you can judge the elasticity, strength, wrinkle resistance and fiber category of the fabric. But in general, feel is the most important means of purchasing fabrics and clothing.
Known as the Queen of fabric
Real silk
Fabric is now more and more popular with consumers, one of the main reasons is that silk products have unique skin care and health care functions for the human body.
silk
It's a natural high
Protein fibre
Contains 18 amino acids similar to human skin,
silk
It is attached to the skin through contact and friction, which protects and moisturizes the human skin.
anti-aging
The role is still increasing
Epithelial cell
Vitality, prevention
angiosclerosis
Promote wound healing and reduce white blood cells and other special functions.
Authentic silk is elegant in texture, soft and comfortable to wear, breathable,
Moisture permeability
Excellent, with good dirt absorption and bacteriological ability. According to the research and analysis of Japanese cosmetologists, its
hygroscopicity
It is 1.5 times that of cotton products, and the moisture release is more than 20% of cotton products.
Silk garment
Allows the skin to sweat smoothly, while absorbing metabolic
Carbon dioxide
Keep the skin clean and reduce the chance of microorganisms breeding on the skin, which is beneficial to human health.
Through the research of experts and scholars,
silk
It has the ability to prevent solar radiation, and the ultraviolet absorption of silk fibers can prevent the harm of excessive ultraviolet rays on human skin. The nitrogen contained in silk can inhibit the rapid burning of fibers, and it is not easy to burn human skin in case of fire. Therefore, some people praise silk as human"
Second skin
"It's not much at all.
silky
damask
,
Antique satin
, large flower
Soft satin
,
Georgette velvet
,
Canary velvet
,
Zhangzhou velvet
,
Cosmetic brocade
Gold treasure and light yarn, gauze,
yarn-dyed
Tuff silk, etc., can't be washed but dry-cleaned. Silk fabrics that can be washed should be washed in combination with their respective characteristics and use different washing methods. Here are a few tips on the maintenance of silk fabrics:
- 1.
Dark clothing or silk fabrics should be washed separately from light ones;
- 2.
Sweaty silk clothing should be washed immediately or soaked in water, do not use hot water above 30 degrees;
- 3.
When washing silk, use acid detergent or light alkaline detergent, it is best to use silk special detergent;
- 4.
It is best to wash by hand, do not twist or wash with a hard brush, should be gently kneaded with clean water, gently squeeze out water with hands or towels, and dry in a shady place;
- 5.
It should be ironed when 80% dry, and should not be directly sprayed with water, and should be ironed on the opposite side of the garment, and the temperature should be controlled between 100-180 degrees;
- 6.
When collecting, it should be washed, dried, stacked, wrapped with cloth, placed in the cabinet, and should not put camphor or sanitary balls.
