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Kimono (わふく, wafuku), is Japanese National costume . ^[1] Edo period Formerly called Wu Fu, the language out of the" Kojiki "," Nihon Shoki "," Loose window sleep talk Before it was called the kimono, Japanese clothing was called the "thing", and the ancient Japanese "Wu fu" was a kind of the "thing".

Kimono can be divided into public and martial. ^[2] The sleeves of the watch from the beginning Muromachi period ^[3] The aristocracy's white sleeves gradually became the subaltern's watch clothes. ^[4] "Objects" in addition to include" Wu Fu "In addition to the shoulder hakama, from Heian period the Hunting clothes Wait, these are not from Wu Fu, but from the local origin Traditional dress . Twelve orders Be due to Nara period Skirt (worn in ancient China) Clothing of Tang dynasty It was improved, and then there were changes and innovations.

Chinese name: kimono
Foreign name: わふく, wafuku
alias: attachment
pseudonym: きもの, kimono

Home country: Japan
Ethnic group: Yamato
fabric: constriction , two feathers, 10, 䌷 , satin , cotton and linen
species: With, Haori , hakama , undergarment , band

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Origin and development

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EDITOR

kimono

kimono (20 photos)

"Kimono" is here The Tokugawa shogunate Previously called "objects", clothes sewn with high-grade textiles were called "Wu fu". Fixed service The title of the kimono is after the Tokugawa shogunate, with the Western Cultural contact In the rise of the concept.

Japan Edo period The "Costume Essentials Copy" pointed out: "Kimono along the Tang clothing and its system is similar. Bongtong China also began in Han Dynasty, Flourish in The Tang Dynasty. The court ordered the good officials to follow the ancient clothes 徃 and compromise with the system of Han and Tang dynasties, and those who were good followed the bad did nothing. The cultural relics of this country are not easy to live for thousands of years." ^[5]

Before the Tang Dynasty, Japanese kimono color is relatively simple, mostly original color, national color, the same dress almost the same color; in Tang dynasty culture Under the influence of kimono color, especially the Yamato type aristocrats Dress color Entering the peak period, at this time, the nobility is divided into colors, such as the clothing color from the top down is deep purple, light purple, crimson, blue, green, black; The color decoration of women's clothing breaks the original single color, and at the same time, the main tone of green, blue and red, add other colors or patterns, the color is gorgeous, the color contrast is obvious, giving people a refreshing feeling ^[6] .

Hanfu with train and kimono with vibrating sleeves

Wu Fu (ごふく gofuku) The title originates from The Three Kingdoms period of China, because Eastern Wu Dynasty Trade with Japan introduced textile and clothing sewing methods to Japan, and the name began to appear. On a more precise level, the term Wufu refers specifically to a high-class kimono made of silk, while a kimono made of linen would be referred to as "tai-thing". In June 1957, Kyoto , Osaka , China, Nagoya , Tokyo Each Wufu Professional store co-founded the national Wufu Professional store association.

The origins of the kimono date back to the 3rd century AD. Here we are Nara period When Japanese envoys came to China, they were presented with a large number of dazzling court clothes. Japan followed suit the following year Sui and Tang dynasties Dress, to Muromachi period The kimono is in the rim Tang dynasty costume The kimono Fanny pack was created after Christian missionaries wore long robes and belts ^[6] .

The Japanese bring their sense of art to the kimono ^[7] . In Japan, attend Coming-of-age ceremony , wedding, funeral, sacrifice, Kendo, kyudo , The way of chess , Tea ceremony , Flower way , graduation ceremony, banquet, Gagaku , performances and celebrations Traditional festival Japanese people wear demure kimonos to attend ^[8] . The culture and ritual of wearing the kimono is called sudo. The kimono carries nearly 30 important intangible cultural assets of Japan related to dyeing and weaving skills and more than 50 Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry of Japan Traditional crafts are specified. Echigo Kamibu, who makes kimonos, Small thousand valley shrink And knot city Noil is entered into the world intangible cultural heritage.

On June 8, 1992, the National Wufu Professional Store association was changed to the national Wufu professional store collaboration combination. ^[9]

Wudi in China is famous for its Wu Fu ^[1] . " Loose window sleep talk "As for folk customs, most of the Jiangnan extravagance in the north of the river, and the Jiangnan extravagance is especially Sanwu." Since the past Wu custom luxury, strange music, human feelings are viewed. Wu uniform and China, think is not Ferwen also; Wu made the machine and the United States, think not is the virgin also. Four heavy Wu fu, and Wu Yi work in the service; Four precious Wu, and Wu Yi works in the tool. A surname Takayuki The more extravagant people are, the more extravagant they are, and those who view the four sides in Wu will be able to pull in frugality."

Court dress of the Nara period (1 photo)

" Kojiki The book says: "If there is a wise man to pay. So I was ordered to pay tribute to his name. And you Ji division. namely Analects of Confucius Ten volumes. A thousand words in a volume. And eleven rolls to pay is the tribute. And tribute overhand people Han forging. The name Zhuo Su. Both Wufu and Nishisu. The ancestor of Qin Dynasty. The ancestor of the Han Straight." namely Paekje to Emperor Ingami Among the tributes were the Analects of Confucius, Thousand character , blacksmiths and two seams from Wu Weaver girl . This matter has nothing to do with Hyogo Ohime of the Wu Fu Shrine and Aji of the Eastern Han Dynasty. Liu Azhi ) About. "In thirty-seven years, the emperor sent Azhi to bring the Lord to Wu to ask for a seamer, and received four women including Wu Zhi, Jizhi and Wu Zhi. Hui Di collapse, because Rende Di." In other words, at that time, two orihime were transported from China to China's textile technology, and after the death of Wu Zhiyuan, she was worshipped as a Wu Fu God in the Wu Fu Shrine. ^[10]

"Japanese Shoji · Xionglue 14th year" said: "In the first month of spring 14, Bingyin Shuo Wuyin, the master of Shenxia village - Qing and other representatives of the Wu State, Wu offered the hand at the end of the chi, Han weaving, Wu weaving And the clothes sewed brother Yuan, brother Yuan, etc., parked in Sumiyotsu ", that is, Wuguo から Hanori が Wuori ferry 帰 hua. The book "Nihon Shoji" said: "In the spring and February of thirty-seven years, on the new day of the Moon, I sent A Zhi to the Lord, to add the Lord to Wu, to ask for a seamer. Love makes the Lord wait Korea The kingdom wants to reach Wu."

" Nippon Kokushi He also said: "At the beginning of the God Emperor, he obtained the book" Analects of Confucius "," Qian Wen "In Baekje Wang Ren . Forty-one years Boxer Festival After sending A Zhi to make the Lord, Du He made the Lord in Wu, two people, after the Han Xiaoling Emperor also, after the Zen of Wei, the chaos to Japan. Kaugeng afternoon is The Western Jin Dynasty (536-597) Yongjia four years, its day Wu, meaning at that time Wu land also. The matter is contained in the Japanese book "Ihin Honji". Asking for a sewing woman. Arrived in Korea Gaoli is vice Jiu Libo, Jiu Reshi The two people are township guides, and the female workers also ". Therefore, the textile and sewing techniques of kimono were first introduced from China. In addition, the Osei Shrine in Kyoto is also dedicated to Wu Zhi Nu and Han Zhi Nu. Shrine stone sign book "Taiqin Ming God Wu weaving God Han weaving god; Silkworm rearing machine weaving orchestra dance Ancestor God ". Another Japan Nishimiya Kita Ihime Daiming god who offered sacrifices to Inajo Shrine. Japanese ballad Wu Fu sings: "Incredible の things を smell くものかな. それは formerly の Jun が for に. The State of Tang よりも du されし. The words "Ayaori and her の and her なるが. Now に is れ to ふは. What といひたるやらん."

In the past, the two concepts of Wu fu and kimono were separate (because most of the public items worn by the nobility were not derived from them) Eastern Wu Dynasty It originated in the Tang Dynasty, and this kind of clothing was also called" Tang Fu But today the two concepts almost overlap. Lots of kimono shops, signs Will meet It says "go ku fu ya", showing that the two words have basically become synonymous. ^[1]

Garment construction

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EDITOR

1. Class and class

Kimono structure

2. Our class is in our class

3. Front right area

4. Left front area

5. Sleeves

6. Sleeves

7. The left side

Kimono structure (2 photos)

8. The right side

9. Sword first

10. A long body

11. Quilting

interviewing

12. Shoulder width

13. Sleeve length

14. Sleeve length

15. Cuff

16. Sleeve payment ^[5]

Production technology

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EDITOR

kimonically

Kimono fabric is" The Book of Songs The materials used in it. The Poem said: "Meng Pei crepe d « Crepe d «¨ means to shrink Formal wear is used in winter and summer leno Yukata are made of kapok. The material traditionally used for formal kimono wear is inverted (small), and the dress is usually worn in the imperial style, in order to continue the taruko shank dyeing Vibrating sleeve He Fu Kawa shogunate Grand Okuoshi ritual. There are traditions too loom woven Grass cloth As well as other Japanese ministers of Economy, Trade and Industry designated traditional crafts such as Small thousand valley shrink Knot city silk, eight silk and so on. Antiobjects usually have a variety of processes, including Edo small grain, Tomozen dye, Plant dyeing , positive blue dye, Red stain , pattern painting, crepe , embroidery, Golden hue Let's wait. The opposite material follows the size of the traditional cloth of the Tang Dynasty, the width of the Tang Dynasty is two inches (36 cm), Long half a horse (two zhang eight feet or so, 12 meters) is a reverse, so it is called the reverse A horse is a dress, so it is called a man and a woman.

Kimono according to the different seasons, from the type, material, pattern and even jewelry small items have its matching rules, especially the practice of tea ceremony, flower, Maiodori and other traditional Japanese skills, but also pay attention to the tradition of time. The forms of clothing are divided into single clothing, 袷, cotton. 袷 is a lined kimono. enfluent Silk wadding Mezzanine. Change after the Dragon Boat Festival Summer wear . From October to early May 袷. Japanese women's kimonos like to change their clothes with the seasons with the theme of four seasons. In kimono painting patterns, plum in spring, calamus in summer, maple in autumn, and pine in winter are directly related to the Japanese sense of season.

Kimonos and Hakata belts with the Maazai process (2 photos)

The weaving and embroidery of the kimono itself, as well as the elaborate rules of dress (the wearing of the kimono requires the wearing of the wooden shoes) Straw boots >, foot bag, but also according to the type of kimono, combing different hairstyles) so that it has become a kind of art, is the concentrated embodiment of Japan's millennium dyeing and weaving process.

The kimono belt is made of Nishiji fabric, Saga brocade and Hakata-ori. Hakata Ori ^[11] With a history of 760 years, it is famous as a graceful "offering belt" (and a belt to take), according to Hakata merchant Yazo Manta Right back The technique that men learned from the Song Dynasty is its origin. ^[11] "Offering motifs" is a pattern of Buddhist utensils Doko and Hua pan by Yayasan Tsuemon, and is called "offering" because it was designated as a tribute to the shogunate. Using a unique technique, the vertical line uses a large number of thin lines, which are strongly woven into the horizontal line and the thick line at the same time, the vertical line emerges to form a pattern.

Kimono work

Kimono cutting diagram

Kimono making is called kazumi, and the production standards are specialized School education "Kimono Tailor Technical Appraisal" conducted by the Revitalization Association and "Kimono Tailor Technical Appraisal" conducted by the Tokyo Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Long tailoring steps
texture	sort	texture	kimonically	manubriform	use
Silk fabric	Plain fabric	constriction	After the war, the country will shrink and the river will shrink	No land after dye	Coat, white no dirt, sleeve shaking, Sleeve up , visiting
		Meisen	Isesaki Mien, Chichibu Mien, Ashikaga Mien	Beng , onyx, no ground after dyeing	interviewing
		䌷	Noil, Kume Island Noil, Oshima Noil, Toyota Noil, Shinshu Noil, Shiozawa NOil, Misawa NOil, Gunon Noil, Huang Hacho, Sendai Flat	Beng , onyx, no ground after dyeing	Small kimono, general section, bag
		Double feather	-	-	Haori Inside and inside
	Looped fabric	絽	Three snap-ins, five snap-ins, seven snap-ins	No land after dye	Summer objects, feather fabric, Hakama
	Textured fabric	Tang Weave	Gold HND silver HND, halo pleat, tapestry, ðd Satin , Polyvinyl chloride	There are job pattern, Zhengcangyuan pattern	Public property, Dressing gown , White immaculate , kimono belt, bag
		Nishijinori	Weave, warp brocade, weft brocade, satin, brocade, Saoba, wind weave, imitation weave, embossed weave, pongee	There are official patterns, auspicious patterns
		Hakata Ori ^[11]	-	Lattice handle, striped handle, offering handle	Hakata belt, The Nagoya Belt Angle band
		kam	Yamato Nishiki, Saga Nishiki, Kashima Nishiki	-	Kimono belt, bag
hemp Fabric	Small thousand valley shrink · Echigo Kamibu, Miyako Kamibu, Kine Kamibu, Noto Kamibu, Yaeyama Kamibu			No ground, 絣, onyx handle, after dye	Summer goods, bathrobes
kapok Fabric	Kurume 絣 , Maoka Kapok, Yuanzhou Kapok, Sanhe Kapok, Matsusaka Kapok, Tambo Kapok			No ground, 絣, onyx handle, after dye	bathrobe
dye ^[12]	Dye	is Aizen , black feather blue dye, Plant dyeing Benefit seed grass and wood dyeing		-	-
	inhibition	Form re-dyed, Red stain Longboard medium shape, Takasaki hand stain, Yuzen Dyed, hand-painted gold watch,		Tang Caowen, fan, Seven treasures, Qinghai wave, Marigold, Four gentlemen pattern	afterstain
	Hank dyeing	Field dyed, there are songsong sea twisted		Deer handle, Ruiyun handle, flower handle	afterstain
embroidered	Kiyonsei embroidery, Edo embroidery			Auspicious pattern	Make coat decorations, and pack small things

1.
Take a counterweight, cut it in half between the shoulder and ankle, twist and sew the back center seam.
2.
Then cut the cloth with the opposite and the front tilt length equal, cut into left and right skirts, and the width of the skirts is about 12.5cm. Sew the front of the front to the left and right sides of the front.
3.
Sew the collar (cloth). The collar is a one-meter-long rectangular strip of cloth that is folded in half and then stitched. The cloth was sewn under the cloth.
4.
Cut the last leftover pieces into two for sleeves, fold them in half and sew them to the leaning sides. Sleeve length standard inch method 100-120 cm, first sew the short side, so that the sleeve becomes a barrel shape that the hand can pass through, and then leave 23 cm on the side of the cuff, the rest of the suture, this 30 cm is the hand to wear out of the cuff, is wrapped, so the side of the cuff is OK, begin to connect with the body. Unlike general clothing, it is not the whole sleeve spliced in the cuff of the clothes, he only spliced about 1/2-3/2, where the underarm is not connected, that is, there is a hole, the hand can be worn out, the sleeve is not connected to the part of the clothes, the men's kimono is closed, the women's kimono is open, so the bag seam. So the side of the kimono can be sewn.
5.
Finally, sew the hem of the garment.

Cultural characteristics

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EDITOR

Types of kimono (3 photos)

There are many varieties of kimono, regardless of color, texture and style, which have changed over the past thousand years. Not only are there obvious differences between men and women (men's kimono color is more monotonous, black, less style, thin belt, simple accessories, easy to wear; The women's kimono is colorful and colorful, the belt is very wide, and there are many accessories), and depending on the occasion and time, people will wear different kimonos to show prudence (the women's kimono has wedding kimono, adult kimono, evening kimono, banquet kimono and general dress). kimono Weaving and dyeing And embroidery, as well as the elaborate rules of dress (the kimono is worn with clogs, cloth socks, and different hairstyles depending on the type of kimono) make it a work of art. Designers constantly innovate in color and texture, applying a variety of bold designs to color, so that the modern impression is cleverly integrated into the classical form.

kimono Plane clipping It is almost entirely composed of straight lines, that is, straight lines create the beauty of the kimono. There is almost no curve in the kimono cut, but there is a 20cm slit at the collar, and the excess is folded together when the collar is raised. If you take the kimono apart, you can see that the fabric used to make the kimono is still a complete rectangle. Because the cutting and making of kimono has the above characteristics, it is relatively free in terms of tailoring. In the production of kimono, less people's body shape, height, fat and thin different people, even wearing the same size kimono, rarely give people the impression that the clothes are not fit. Because, it can vary from person to person, adjust the size in the waist. Although the kimono is basically composed of straight lines, interspersed on the body in a straight tube shape, the lack of pairs Human curve But it can show solemn, stable, quiet, in line with the temperament of the Japanese. Not only that, but the kimono was also adapted to Japanese nature; Most of Japan is warm and humid, so clothing ventilation is very important. Because the kimono is loose, the clothes Air hole There are as many as eight, and the sleeves, skirts, and trains of the kimono can be free Opening and closing So it is very suitable for the climate of Japan.

Ventilation is a major advantage and feature of the kimono, so the cuff of the kimono, The front of a Chinese jacket or jacket , train Can open and close freely. However, this opening and closing, especially the opening and closing of the garment, has many concerns. Different opening and closing have different meanings, showing different identities of the wearers. For example, when an artist wears a kimono, the front of the garment is always open, and only at the intersection of the "V" shape of the garment is tied. This way of dressing not only gives people a sense of kimono without taking off, showing a subtle beauty, but also shows the identity of the women engaged in the profession. On the other hand, if a woman not engaged in the occupation is wearing a kimono, the skirt must be closed. But even if it is a closed shirt, its degree is also exquisite, and it shows the wearer's Marital status If it is a married woman, then the skirt does not have to be all closed, you can open the place near the neck. However, if it is an unmarried girl, the skirt must be fully closed. In fact, there is so much emphasis on kimono dressing that there are "classrooms" in Japan dedicated to teaching people how to wear them. In 1964, Japan specially established the "Institute of Ritual and Art", which trained a large number of experts in kimono, popularizing kimono dressing, ritual, and cutting, creativity, beauty, and publishing books. In 1966, the All-Day Spirit Thing Revival Association was established to promote November 15 as kimono Day and call on the public to wear kimonos on July 53. ^[13]

Development history

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EDITOR

The original Japanese clothing was called" cassock Women's clothing and men's clothing known as "banners". The so-called "full-length dress" is to cut a hole in the cloth, pull it over the head, and then tie the cloth hanging under the arms with a strap, and then match it with a skirt bottoms The practice is rather primitive, but very practical. The so-called "banner" is the uncut cloth wrapped around the body, exposing the right shoulder, like a monk's robes.

Legend Central Japan In the age of God Izanazi God told him to remove his coat, hakama and belt when performing the ritual of elimination (the practice of fasting and bathing for good luck). Thousands of ruins of Japanese life in this period have been found in an area stretching from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. Primitive society The majority of Japanese live a migratory life in groups, mainly Production activity It's hunting and gathering (don't always think of imperial times). Perhaps it was at that time that the Japanese began to process the cold with animal fur or leaves, and walked out of the era of naked. In the late Jomon culture period (Japan Neolithic age 800- 500 BC) and Yayoi In the era of Japanese culture (the era of the use of Yayoi pottery in Japan, equivalent to 300-300 BC), two basic styles of clothing appeared in Japan. One is a pullover Crewneck shirt The shape was similar to today's Round neck knit pullover ; The other is the front on the back, placket The left skirt is used, the tip of the collar is to the waist, and the length of the sleeve is above the knee. With the coat matching hakama, scarf, in the beard ratio. Hakama originally refers to a crotch cloth worn in the lower body covered in the top, but here hakama refers to a leg connection similar to pants. Men have a waist called the dress, the waist is tied around the coat, because the knot appears pleated, so that the clothing has some changes. Most women wear clothes, and unlike men, women's clothes are long to the ground, and the form of today's North Korean women's skirts "kima" is quite similar.

The scarf is usually used as decoration hitch In the two shoulders, the form of hanging is not limited, usually determined by personal preferences. in Productive labor The middle scarf is also often used as a strap to tie up long sleeves, or as an alternative to cloth.

kimono (3 photos)

On the occasion of parting, people wave the scarf to show their reluctance to part, which was later popular in the Meiji era to wave handkerchief Saying goodbye serves the same purpose. The Yusubi is a ribbon of fabric larger and longer than a scarf, which is draped around the waist during the first day. Ancient Japanese women are taboo to be peeped by men, so it is used to cover their faces.

According to... Kojiki "," Nihon Shoki ", "Planting Wheel Atlas"," Pick up the relics of ancient words "And other documents recorded that Japanese Jomon culture in the late era and Yayoi The clothing of the cultural era has adopted mulberry cloth, linen and cotton Coarse cloth Rattan cloth, cobb, etc Plant fibre The tape is made of Japanese cloth. Clothing material The appearance is shrouded in the halo of mythology, such as the day vulture god cutting mulberry weaving cloth, the day long white feather God created his own linen for civilian use.

Dyeing was already relatively common at that time, according to the Book of God Emperor Jinghaei When civilians already know to use madder Dyed red, indigo dyed green, 荩草 Stained yellow, acorn Dyed fruit black, purple roots purple. Most of the dyed goods have no lines, and occasionally there are some prints, which are generally used directly leaf It's a floral scrub. The plants used are moon grass, swallow-wort , Hazel, mountain blue, Honeysuckle Let's wait. ^[13]

Nara period

The court dress of the time sacrifice (7 photos)

Japan Ancient times The coarse cloth clothing with narrow sleeves and slants is similar to that worn in ancient China. But, really written down, will Chinese clothing The introduction of Japan, and so that it is absorbed and institutionalized, should be from Nara period Here. In the 8th century, Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing was introduced to Japan, which had an impact on the kimono that originated in Japan. There were also many names for kimonos at that time, such as "casa", "banner" and later "kimono", which were influenced by East Asian clothing. ^[14] The Nara period in Japan coincided with the flourishing Tang Dynasty in China. Japan sent a large number of scholars and monks to China to study, exchange and absorb. These emissaries brought back to Japan the culture, art and legal system of the Tang Dynasty. The "Order of clothes" was one of the rules made during the Nara era. The "Dress Order" stipulated formal dress, court dress, and uniform - court dress, including crown and hat, according to official rank; Uniform is the clothing of non-official civil servants, press Industry classification . Overall, the color of clothing in the Nara period is relatively simple.

Heian period

Heian court attire (10 photos)

Here we are Heian period (After the ninth century), due to the prevalence of national style, Japanese kimono gradually got rid of foreign influences, developed a unique luxury and exquisite characteristics, and its clothes began to diversify in color. sleeve It's also moving in a broader direction. For example, familiarity History of Japan People must have heard of it." Clothing of Tang dynasty "And" Twelve orders ". Tang clothing is a kind of dress (dress), purple, Feifei for expensive, resplendent, beautiful. Twelve single is actually a way of wearing, she is not twelve layers of single clothes, but twelve layers of clothing called 袿 stacked on the single clothes, 袿 light and transparent, multiple layers of 袿 can still faintly see the color of the single clothes or watch, add hazy trance beauty.

Kamakura period

The official uniform of the Wu family

Due to excessive corruption and extravagance, the prince's rule finally declined.

Kamakura period, relatively lean, simple Bujia culture Appear, this one Characteristics of The Times It's also reflected in the clothes. In addition, at that time, the Yuan Dynasty unified China and invaded Japan ten times in a row: the Japanese returned to plain clothing in order to facilitate the war, and the wide sleeves changed back to narrow sleeves.

Muromachi period

Muromachi period (7 photos)

In the Muromachi era, the family pattern was printed on the clothes (in ancient Japan, every family has a family pattern according to its surname, and the number of family pattern is estimated to be more than 20,000), and the casual dress design began to be dressed. vertical And black hat is a fashionable men's wear, very popular. Women's clothing, on the other hand, is more simplistic.

Anto Momoyama era

Anto Momoyama era (2 photos)

Oda Nobunaga the Yasuto period , Toyotomi Hideyoshi the Momoyama period (in the middle of the 16th century), people began to pay attention to different places to wear different clothes, so there was a "visit dress" to participate in weddings, tea parties, and participate in various celebrations. Adult festival "Sleeve dress" for banquets and blind dates. In this period, there is a distinct civil character." Noh Lok "Gradually taking shape, the magnificent" Can "costume appeared. At this time, there was no major change in the prince's clothing, which was basically a continuation of the court clothing of the Heian period, and the final integration of the Prince and the Wu family was in Meiji period That's later.

Momoyama period People began to pay attention to different places to wear different clothing, so there was a wedding banquet, tea party to wear the "visit" (from the left shoulder, left sleeve to the skirt into a pattern), as well as to participate in various celebrations, adult day, banquet, blind date to wear "sleeve". ^[15]

Edo period

The end of the Mukai wedding

It's Japan History of fashion During the most prosperous period, although there were changes in men's wear and women's wear, (such as the small sleeve shape of women's wear became close to modern, while men's wear was popular with feather weaving < black five stripes for formal wear, tea, yellow followed, and knot became popular.) However, the basic pattern has been set, by the Meiji era, the sense of the kimono was finalized, since then has not changed much. Most of the kimonos we see are along Edo period Style of clothing ^[5] .

Kimono art

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EDITOR

Kimono art (4 photos)

Japanese painting originated in Japan, and the history of Japanese painting has been affected Indian Buddhism And the influence of Chinese fine arts, especially during the Tang Dynasty of China, Buddhist art Spread to China and Japan, both in the temple fresco statues and life portraiture There are similarities in both countries.

The paintings that truly reflect the Japanese kimono are mainly Japanese Genre painting . Japanese genre painting emerged in the Shikan period (1392-1573), equivalent to China's Ming Dynasty. At that time, many Chinese genre paintings were introduced into Japan, such as reflecting ancient China Working people birthing Tillage map ", was followed by Japanese painters as a model, so that Japan has also appeared many versions of the "Kogono Nagamoto", such as the Kawano Nagamoto, there are also Wakayama Prefecture Koyasan Manzuku painted screen "Weaving" and so on. But the real rise of Japanese genre painting took place Edo period At that time, although there was a classical painting school specializing in traditional things as a painting subject, such as The Tale of Genji Pure glass stories and so on have appeared in the royal palace and noble screens at that time, this traditional theme is generally expressed by traditional painting techniques. The figures in the painting are wearing the gorgeous clothes of the palace at that time, and the modeling style is similar to that of the office Rugoid . But there were more genre paintings painted on these screens at the same time, which was a feature of the early Edo period (early 16th century), and its painting center was in Kyoto, at that time, after the chaos of the Hirohito civilization, Kyoto's economy was being revived, and the Nine year Garden Festival as a symbol of recovery was held annually in Kyoto, and because of this, a series of screen pictures appeared in large numbers. Such as Caraginoku's "Luozhong Special Map", this map has three versions, stare Taboto , Nishimoto, Uesugi Moto, in addition to Zangyu Tokyo National Museum "Luozhong Custom Picture" screen (first half of 17th century), Shizetado Bunko The theme of these screens is quite similar to the spring excursion pictures of the Tang Dynasty, but the characters are more numerous and the scene is more grand, which highlights the content of kabuki. Like four rivers and six willows. The former is the center of the rise of kabuki, and the latter is the place where female kabuki gather. Be founded in Khanh Chaung Eight years (1603) of Kitano Shoyo Kabuki became popular overnight. At the end of the Keijang period, a permanent stage was set up in Shijokahara for the performance of the six Ryocho touring women, and there were a large number of written records of this custom, and the area became the cultural center of Kyoto. It shows how kimonos were worn at that time ^[10] .

But kabuki's pomp was frowned upon by the rulers, Kanaga Kabuki was banned by the government in sixteen years, so a large number of indoor amusement pictures were added during the Kanaga years.

To the middle Edo period, corresponding to the genre painting is the Momoyama period Ukiyoe Ukiyo-e is to draw a single beauty from the indoor amusement drawing to depict, this form in Kuan Van The era is particularly popular, so it is called the Kuan Wen beauty picture, among which the "Eight thousand generations of Doctor Map" is a particularly excellent work.

In the mid-17th century, print illustrations appeared in Edo publications, drawn by what were known as underplate painters, mostly unknown painters, among whom stood out Shishinori Hiragawa (1618-1694), Shitsunori worked as an illustrator for the Edo edition of Nishizuru Imihara's Lecherous Generation Men, in which each illustration can be appreciated independently. Shi Xuan is the founder of a painting, he made "See the return of the beauty picture" beauty wearing red small anthocephalus The embroidered kimono with a large flower pattern, the beauty looks back, smiling and beautiful, extremely moving.

In the second year of Meiwa (1765), paintings centered on haiku became popular. Produced with luxurious multi-color printmaking, of which the excellent author is Harunobu Suzuki (1725-1770), its prints are like the beauty of brocade, so it is called brocade painting, and the beauty of its painting is especially the beauty of willow waist, which is popular. The beauty paintings after Harushin are represented by Katsukawa Haruako, Kiyonagi Torii But the most famous ukiyo-e people are several Kitagawa Kugamo (1753-1806) ^[16] Most of his paintings are half-body paintings or large first paintings, such as "Ten Bodies of Women" and so on. Later, many genre paintings of sericulture or textile production also used this style of ukiyo-e, and the women in the paintings wore kimonos of lower-class working women.

From Japan to modern times, there is also a special school of beauty painting, which mostly paints Japanese women wearing kimonos.

Since the 30th year of Meiji, Japanese painters began to create a new beauty painting method, which can be divided into three schools, one is the modern beauty painting school that emerged from ukiyo-e, to Kanto Dysprosium wood clear square Be represented by; The second is the lady and Upper class The main beauty paintings of the wives, to the four as the generation of the Matsuen works, there are groups of Japanese women wearing kimonos, handsome, rich faces, the kimono-making method described is also very clear crepe still Yuzen Can distinguish; The third is the beauty painting of the combination of the east and the west, to Western painting Style to depict Japanese women wearing kimonos.

The above art works related to kimonos. It not only preserves the colors, fabrics, patterns, styles and accessories of the kimono from different periods in history, but also reflects the way the kimono is worn and the various gestures and gestures of the Japanese who wear it. In addition, these works are actually kimonos in the eyes of the artist, revealing the attitude and feelings of the artist and his contemporaries towards the kimono. ^[12]

species

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EDITOR

Kimono-wearing members of the Japanese Parliament

There are many types of kimono, not only men and women kimono points (men's kimono color is relatively monotonous, heavy black, less style, thin belt, accessory Simple, easy to wear; The women's kimono is colorful and gorgeous, the belt is very wide, and there are many kinds and styles, and many accessories.) ^[14] Unmarried, married, and there are loungewear and dress. Showa 13 (1938), Japan Education Ministry The establishment of the "Practice Professor's Investigation Committee", the highest authority of etiquette at that time, Chamber of peers The Marquis of Tokugawa, a member of parliament, was appointed chairman of the investigation. Soon the Ministry of Education promulgated the "Showa National Code of Etiquette". The "Main Items of the Ritual Law" made a detailed specification of the national dress and adopted the Edo Takeka intelligentsia The dress. The Japanese men's national dress originated in Muromachi Edo period The samurai dynasty dress. Meiji four years issued the distribution of knives and uniform with the order, the provision of ministers, counselors, governors, vice-ministers in addition Court rites In addition to Haori The hakama is casual. Meiji decade Taimasato Haichi hakama was announced as the usual dress for officials, and has since become the national dress for Japanese men, that is Striped brocade hakama It is also used as an adult and wedding dress. ^[13]

bathrobe

Women's kimono colorful, wide belt, different kimono belt knot method is also different, but also with different hairstyles. Married women wear more." Sleeve up "Kimono, unmarried girls wear more." Vibrating sleeve "Kimono. In addition, depending on the purpose of going out, such as visiting, playing and shopping, the pattern, color, and style of the kimono are also different. ^[5]

bathrobe

Edo period In the past, the word "bath" for kimono meant "hot water", and at that time people called the kimono "yu ka ta bi ra". Valance refers to single clothing, that is, clothing used for single wear.

Kimono yukata (2 photos)

In ancient times, bathrooms were basically steam, very similar to saunas. People protect themselves from walls and pillars scald All bathing in soup curtains. The soup valance known as "kimono" began in the Edo period. Later, people gradually changed the form of bathing, bathing no longer dressed, but soaked in hot water. As a result, this kimono became a simple garment to wear after bathing, and as a summer leisure to reflect the personal interest of the clothing continues to this day.

bathrobe Strictly speaking, it can not be directly equivalent to the kimono, and many accessories of formal clothing are optional for yukata, such as foot bags, straps and so on. ^[17]

Small kimono

Kurume 絣 small kimono

Small grain can be used Everyday clothes . Different from the large or medium patterns in the kimono, it uses the process of printing and dyeing small patterns with paper patterns, so the kimono with such patterns is named "small grain".

To this day, Small kimono The definition has changed, Regardless of the size of the pattern, as long as there is a pattern of repeated printing and dyeing kimono, they are collectively called "small grain."

Look out : A dress belt with small stripes." Pocket strap "And" The Nagoya Belt In addition, because the small grain belongs to the kimono that is close to casual clothes, you can also choose a narrow "pouch belt". Shoes can be matched Straw boots , can also be matched clogs But make sure you wear a foot bag. ^[5]

colorless

colorless^[5]

"Landless" means no pattern And so, literally," colorless That is, in the kimono, the entire garment is only a type of kimono with a single color and no pattern except for black (black is mourning).

Although there is no pattern, a dark weave is allowed.

In case colorless supersuffix Family pattern , then it is the same dress as "visiting"; If it is not decorated with home stripes, it is a secondary dress, or a daily dress. Moreover, if a black belt is used, it can be used as a secondary mourning dress (clothing for attending funerals); If it is paired with a nine-inch belt, it can even be used as a costume for participating in rituals. Therefore, color is a widely used type that is not very selective about the time and occasion of wearing.

A color without a home is a color without a place Leisure suit A color with a grain (a home grain on the back of the garment) can be used as a participant Tea party The secondary dress of the congratulatory meeting, if with three lines (back seam, left and right shoulder each home line) of color, style can almost be said to be higher than the visit of the next, or no home line.

The color is also perfect for a tea party because Tea ceremony Emphasis on elution of lead China, plain and quiet, so the color can be said to be the most in line with the purpose of tea clothing. If you wear the color in the ritual service, vigil for acquaintances, funeral and other occasions, generally choose a plain color, with a grain of color. It should be noted that although the color is simple, it is not appropriate if the dark grain of the clothes is a pattern of auspicious meaning. ^[5]

Pay a kimono

defray

The "down" kimono can be seen as a simplified version of the visiting. It is a general term for a kimono whose sleeves, front and back, and collar patterns are printed from the bottom up. than Visiting kimono More light and comfortable. けげ There is no such form of "re-feather", so the designs are scattered. For けげ usually not extra Family pattern . The occasion is similar to a visit, but less suitable for formal ceremonies.

Visiting kimono

Visiting kimono In the Meiji era, it was created in response to the "Visiting Dress" of western clothing.

There was no difference between married and unmarried participants . Visiting is the overall pattern of the kimono, it is a picture from the bottom, left front sleeve, left shoulder to the collar after opening, characterized by the" Rewa (えば) "in this form. Refers to the pattern on the access, across the stitches, can be pieced together into a large pattern. That is to say, when the whole piece is spread out, you can see a complete picture. Good places to visit are: friends' weddings, Party , accompanying the admission ceremony, Tea party Reunion, blind date, etc Social occasion . ^[5]

Kimono with vibrating sleeves

Dress sleeve (24 photos)

Vibrating sleeve It is usually worn only by girls and unmarried women. But there are exceptions, and that's boys heptacarboxylate The celebratory dress is also made in the style of vibrating sleeves.

The vibrating sleeve is divided into three details - small vibrating sleeve (two-foot sleeve), medium vibrating sleeve (vibrating sleeve) and large vibrating sleeve (local vibrating sleeve).

Small sleeves are generally used as gowns for admission and graduation, and middle sleeves are mostly used for New Year, adult style, and unmarried women Formal occasion Big swing sleeves (Flower married vibration sleeve) Most used for weddings.

Most people mistakenly believe that the classification of the sleeve is divided according to the length of the sleeve, of which the sleeve length of the small sleeve is two feet, that is, about 76 centimeters, and there is basically no objection to this point, but the sleeve length of the middle sleeve used to be about 85 centimeters, and then gradually lengthening to the same as the big sleeve. It makes it difficult for even the Japanese to distinguish the difference between the words vibrating sleeve, medium vibrating sleeve and large vibrating sleeve. The reason for this blurring is probably because the average height of girls has increased. For example, the original vibrating sleeve can only hang down to the middle of the calf.

Actually mean Vibrating sleeve It is also commonly known as Vibrating sleeve The difference between large sleeves and local sleeves is not the length of the sleeves. In addition to the longer sleeves, the other structures are basically the same as ordinary kimono. ^[5]

Kimono with sleeves

Black sleeve (left) Color sleeve (right)

Sleeve up Divided into black sleeve and color sleeve, black sleeve is black sleeve, black sleeve for Married woman The most formal dress is on the two chests, two sleeves and the back 5 A family tattoo. And only three of them are less formal. Unmarried women are not allowed to wear black with sleeves . The color sleeve is the color sleeve, the color sleeve is the more ordinary clothing, Unmarried women can also wear it . ^[5]

Sea old tea Hakama

Two-foot sleeves and hakama

Meiji era, woman National education It became popular. Meiji Era Gakuin Women's school Minister, Chinese girls' school principal, women's ritual family Shimoda Gezi man hakama After the transformation of the sea old tea hakama as women's school uniform. Hai old tea hakama is also used as a graduation ceremony dress for women.

The shoes can be formal grass shoes, or boots, and boots are left over from the Taisho period. ^[5] ^[18]

Hanami kimono

The flower wedding dress (はなよめいしょう) is the most formal dress for women at the time of marriage. It originated from the Takeka family of the Edo period gown . The traditional wedding in Japan is the wedding before God; The flower wedding dress is necessary for the wedding before God. Flower wedding dress is mainly divided into three kinds, including color, White immaculate And vibrating sleeves (usually large vibrating sleeves), the color is mainly white or red. ^[13]

Taihang is the shogunate period principality The lady's formal dress is only used on festivals and celebrations. It can also be used by unmarried women. White immaculate Is the shogunate period noble women's wedding dress, aya, nylon, Double feather The texture. On the wedding day, only wearing white divination, because white symbolizes purity (another said that the woman married into the husband's family is dead in the family, white is Dead clothes It is easy to stain the color of your husband's home. After a few days of marriage, I changed the color (with the husband's family). ^[5] In Japan, the bride is dressed in white - a long-sleeved white kimono called "Zhen sleeve", draped in a white wada style smock Called "white without dirt", white is said to be for the groom to dye his favorite color, or to prove the bride's purity. The bride also wears a high Japanese bun called a "Fuminine Tashimada" and wears white hair Silk floss A hat or a white veil, and the chest Pocket (for carrying money, etc.) Or short sword (used for protection or suicide, now used as decoration), feet wearing white Japanese socks, wearing grass shoes. ^[19]

Mourning dress

Mourning dress (five stripes) is the kimono worn at the funeral, all black (except Long jacket Outside), including some small items such as belts are black. Taichi, a five-grain kimono. Some have no dark lines, some have bands

There are dark patterns in the shape of yarns, clouds, lotus, water and waves. ^[5]

Men's kimono

Kimono for men (20 photos)

Men's kimonos are decorated with patterned feathers and hakama as formal attire, that is Striped brocade hakama Feather weave clothing for feather double, hakama for Sendai Yes. In addition to black, other colored patterns in the jacket and hakama are only used as a casual dress, can be casually worn Clothing matching . Under sleeve Long and yukata are used as common clothes. ^[5]

add-on

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EDITOR

Pill band

The original straps used in the women's kimono have patterns in the front, which are gorgeous and elegant.

Pocket strap

Eight inches wide (Japan's 1 inch =3.03cm), the front has a pattern, the bottom is plain color, is the most popular belt in Japan. One of them is woven into brocade wired-OR Gold thread straps can be worn with ceremonial wear, while other straps with light patterns are used for fashion wear.

The Nagoya Belt

The two ends of the drum are connected with two thinner straps, so that it is comfortable and convenient to tie.

Bag Nagoya belt

The bandwidth is eight inches (1 inch =3.03cm), which is lighter and more comfortable than the bag belt.

Half band

Half band Alternate name Scarf half Its bandwidth is only about half that of ordinary tape (about 15cm), and it is 3.5 meters long. No lining, no cording, you can tie it as you like. (Can be used for yukata or small kimono, and for hakama belt when wearing hakama)

Kimono accessories

The beauty of the kimono, in addition to the combination of clips, bands and knots, the accessories of the kimono also play a great role. The main accessories of kimono are belt, belt, Band plate With pillow, Idadi, waist button, chest button, wings and so on. In addition, there are underwear matching with the kimono, some auxiliary appliances when wearing the kimono and performing beauty, as well as shoes and other accessories. ^[5]

Belt lift and belt association

Bind and lift

The belt and the tie are very important accessories in the kimono.

Belt lift

In addition to the role of belt lifting in the production of belt lifting is able to fix and cover the belt pillow, and in the decoration is also strictly required with the kimono, kimono belt matching. The material of the belt is generally selected Spinning silk , twill, crepe, etc., decorated above tie-dye The pattern, Yuzen Dye, small grain, embroidery pattern or color without ground. ^[5]

Band association

Taichi plays the role of tying the knot of the kimono, there Rope strap , Braided belt The points of quilting belt. There is a kind of quilted cylindrical belt called ball quilting, which is a special band on the dress. There is another kind of interference filigree The ribbon is also commonly used for formal dresses and casual dresses.

Strap (the "green bead" at the bottom left of the picture is the strap)

Generally speaking, the price of the broadband with thick band is higher than that of the narrow band, so the narrow band is generally only used in the bathrobe.

Band plate

Also known as the "front plate", is placed in the belt to prevent the belt wrinkles, a plastic accessory, the width relative to the belt is narrower.

Belt pillow

The belt pillow is used to make the shape of the drum knot and shape the change of the knot shape, and can also be used as a support for the knot. Large is very large, but generally use the standard shape.

Idadi

It is a kimono accessory that is tied to the chest below the collar socket to prevent wearing out of shape. Idadi generally chooses the thin texture of Hakata fabric.

Pectoral button

It is used to compare the length of the kimono when wearing it, or as a fake button for the chest.

Wing to wing

It is a specific decoration on the sleeve to make the two layers of stitching visible in the kimono. The wings are arranged on the cuffs, collar, and skirt, as well as the opening from the underarm to the undersleeve. Mourning clothes do not match wings.

Foot pocket

Foot bags are socks. Kimono socks are required to be completely white, and the four toes are placed together and separated from the big toes.

Muscle loops Long loops

Muscle ru is the skin undershirt It plays the role of absorbing sweat in summer and keeping warm in winter Natural fibre made-up Spun yarn The collar is made of narrow V-shaped collar made of similar cloth. Fabric selection of woven silk, crepe fabric, nylon length than the long loop about 5 cm short.

Long jacket

Long jacket Also called kimono long shirt, is a layer of clothes worn in the kimono, the main function is to keep the kimono smooth and beautiful appearance while wearing, but also play a role in anti-fouling.

Semi-class: also called lining collar (false collar). Half collar seam in long A surname On, the main function is to prevent pollution and beautify the Ru. Fabric selection crepe fabric, salt rose woven silk and so on. ^[13]

shoe

Exquisite grass shoes

With other clothing items including straw shoes, backpacks, handbags, Belt buckle , Hair Accessories Let's wait.

Straw boots It does not refer to shoes made of grass, but to cloth shoes, leather shoes, Patent leather shoes Etc. heel A general term for shoes ranging from 2 to 8 cm.

When choosing grass shoes, pay attention to the selected grass shoes and the purpose of the kimono should be consistent. The straw shoes used for the dress are made of cloth, and the heels of the shoes should be chosen higher. In recent years, more and more people have chosen patent leather shoes, which also reflects a fashion of grass shoes.

piggyback (ge ta)

namely clogs There are paints under the burden, white wood under the burden and so on.

When wearing a yukata, wear it barefoot. When it rains, clogs should be covered with rainproof and mud-proof clogs called rain pack.

clogs

Carry it barefoot. When it rains, clogs should be covered with rainproof and mud-proof clogs called rain pack.

handbag

It is also one of the important accessories of the kimono, and it is also required to match the kimono in the selection of fabrics and colors. A dress handbag is usually made of Saga Brocade, Hakata weaving, tapestry as fabric. As a handbag to carry when going out, it is generally selected Patent leather And leather as a surface.

keep

It plays the same role as the ribbon, but the buckle is usually decorated with pearls, seven treasures, etc., in order to leave a good impression.

Hair Accessories

Such as comb, hairpin, ribbon, etc., choose the occasion to pay attention to the use of hair accessories, like wearing a gorgeous kimono such as vibration sleeves, choose hair accessories will be more fancy; If you wear mourning clothes, avoid wearing hair accessories such as coral and jade.

Also: handbags, clogs (or straw shoes).

Special clip

Kimono clip

When wearing kimono, when controlling the long loop and the kimono collar, special clips are needed to fix it. Easy to secure the position of the band when tying. With common clamp Different, in order to prevent clothes or belts from leaving clamp marks, the special clip should be flat, and the strength of the clip should be enough, and there is a fixed size. ^[13]

Public property

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EDITOR

Public property (14 photos)

Public property means Nara Since the Heian Period Emperor of Japan Until more than five ministers of the dress system, that is, the Chinese ceremonial dress, also known as Peace dress . include Official robe , ribbon, straight dress, Hunting clothes , Twelve orders , 袿 hakama, Water drying Let's wait. Imperial robe Smoke tree Dye clothes . The Crown Prince of Japan in yellow, Prince Purple clothing .

Officials from one to eight according to the Tang and Song dynasties Public service System, respectively, purple, crimson, green, blue. During the shogunate era, the government used ribbon dresses, with more than four black robes and five red robes. The twelve singles are the dresses worn by the doomed woman when she enters the palace or festival. Fall into Clothing of Tang dynasty , single clothes, watches, etc., a total of twelve layers.

kimono

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EDITOR

The first step is to put on the foot bag (sock), and then put it on neatly in order, the strap should not be too tight.

1. After wearing a long jacket, you put on your kimono and pull the sleeves of your undershirt into the sleeves of your kimono. Adjust the back seam of the kimono to the center of your back and use clamp Fasten the shirt to the collar of the kimono.

2. Lift about 15cm below the collar with one hand and hold the back of the kimono with the other Center line Lift the kimono and adjust the length of the hem so that it does not touch the length of the ground.

3. Open the kimono and place the front collar at the waist bone to determine the width of the front. It is advisable to align the edges of the kimono with the sides of the body.

4. After deciding the width, slowly open the front side, then fit the bottom side wide, and then raise the lower part of the collar held by the right hand by 10 cm, so that the bottom thread tilts

5. Repeat front, raise the lower part of the collar held by the left hand by 5 cm, be careful not to misposition. Adjust the wrinkles upward after the waist appears.

6. Tie the first string around your waist. The strap is tied from the front of the body, crossing the back line back to the front to tie the knot.

7. Smooth out wrinkles around your waist. Insert your hand through the slits under the armhole to check that the kimono is not caught in the straps and to smooth out any excess at the back.

8. Also smooth the excess part of the chest, pull the wrinkles under the armpit, grab the two sleeve edges with both hands, and gently pull the cuff.

9. Check whether the two collars are neatly crossed. If there is misalignment, extend the hand through the slit under the armhole to adjust. Neckline slits can't be too big or too small.

10. Tie a second string under the chest, the excess part must be pulled neatly, and the front part of the repeat process is horizontal.

11. Straighten your waist and tie a little band called "IDA" on your chest, because the little band has flexibility Be careful not to tie it too tightly.

12. Check the chest and back for folds and loosens, if so, pull down the underarm side to smooth. Check that the center line of the kimono and the long jacket are in the same position. After overall completion Use large Check the mirror for errors and remove the collar clip. ^[5]

Yukata belt tying

If a person is tying the knot, you can tie it in front of your chest and then hold it in your right hand seed Take the lower side of your back in your left hand and turn the kimono to your back from the right direction.

1. Fold the waist width in half, stick it on the waist, take the length of the knot eye, the knot eye length should be 20 cm.

2. Hang the knotted eye part over your shoulder and the rest neatly loincloth Two laps.

3. Fold the remaining band in half after two waist circles and tie it with the end hanging on the shoulder.

Library junction

4. Place your feet slightly apart to stabilize your body, then tighten the strap firmly.

5. Take the knotted eye part and fold it into three folds.

6. Tie a piece of string around your shoulders and fasten the eye to the string with a clip.

7. Smooth the crease of the wing part.

8. The wings should be shoulder-width apart and rolled right side up.

9. Pick up the knot wing on the strap gasket Put on the pillow and roll it up.

10. Fold the wings into a nice fold and attach them On the back .

11. Open the knot wings and arrange them beautifully. Check again when you're done and adjust the Angle of the wings.

12. Carry the whole thing back. ^[5]

Dress precautions

Collar: left side over right side

Kimono dress need to pay attention to the kimono left front and right front cover method is particular, in general, wear the right front collar close to the chest, left front collar and then cover the right front collar, this method is called "right front"; Otherwise, it is "left front". Kimono wearing method, born is "right front" that is left on the right (front collar), because the Japanese believe that the world after death is the opposite of life, so the dead wear method is "left front" that is right on the left. The "right front" method is said to be subjected to Ancient Chinese clothing It is also said that the Japanese are right-handed, so the knife is used in the left waist, if the "left front" wearing method is used, the knife is affected by the left lapel collar, the action will not be smooth.

Many people do not know this saying, when wearing a kimono, the right side of the left side, and even many stars wear the right side of the left side, for example Yi Nengjing , Rainie Yang It's not correct to make this mistake when you're on a show. ^[5]

Dress taboo

In Japan, people use clothes to "conjure up" the custom: people either on the pillow of the dead, or on the roof toward the mountains and the sea, or wave the dead clothes to call the dead back. When washing used clothes for the dead, wash them facing north and let them dry in the middle of the day. After washing and drying, it must be neatly folded, collected for a period of time and then beaten with a rod a few times before the living can wear it. Therefore, when people wash clothes in daily life, they never dry them in the north, and they do not hang them outside at night.

In cities, most families do not wash clothes on the first day of the first lunar month. Ancient customs, the day of the month, 15, 28, and even the other shore festa And no laundry. This is of course the holiday needs a good rest, but also fear that the soul of the sacrificial object on this day is floating and attached to the drying clothes. When the newly made clothes are worn, some areas (such as Jizhou) first put the clothes on the pole; In some places ( Okinawa Sing, "I am a thousand years old, my pillar a thousand years old," "My clothes are thin, my body is strong." Even if you do not thread the wooden posts first, you should fold them and beat them twice before using them. It's all because of the fear that some kind of spirit is hidden in the clothes. After collecting for a period of time, knock with a rod, or wear the wooden column first, from the subjective desire, I hope to play a role in resolving the disaster and warding off evil. ^[5]

" nonset "Do not reverse the crown, like the dead dress", Henan Qinyang There's a legend that says, "Wear a skirt backwards, marry another man." Because the dead went to an opposite world hades World, so when you die, dress backwards and wear a hat backwards. Japanese custom, when people are buried dead, to the left to cover the front, meaning that all the attire of the dead and the living are opposite. Therefore, usually when people wear clothes, the most taboo collar nest in the inside, or later for the front, to the inside as the surface.

In the same way, because of animism, people think that the clothes they wear must contain their own soul, and giving the clothes they wear to their closest friends means giving their souls to them, which shows that they are sincere. Some people When giving clothes, you also put a five-yuan Japanese currency in the pocket, which is a homophone for five yuan, indicating the meaning of "imperial edge" (with you), and there are gifts of "buy clothes money" and "buy belt money", which are manifestations of this custom. ^[13]

Color taboo

" Chinese folk taboo In the book, the color of clothing has been summarized into four: expensive color taboo, base color taboo, fierce color taboo, brilliant color taboo.

" The Book of Rites The day bullet clothing varies in color from season to season Yin-yang and five elements Divided into green, red, yellow, white, black five colors.

Emperor Taizong of Tang Zhenguan four years set Baiguan court dress color, purple column Zhu before: more than three purple; Four, five Fu; Six dark green; Seven grades of medicine Light green ; Eight products deep green; The nine grades of rank in feudal China It's a light blue.

So to speak, History of Japan The color taboo on these have varying degrees of similarity.

Emperor Tyko Eleven years (605), Prince of Sengde Promulgate." Crown position twelve order ", using the crown according to the order.

From top to bottom are virtue (purple), benevolence (blue), rites (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white), and wisdom (black). These six colors and crown positions are subdivided into two sizes, a total of twelve orders.

In Japanese history, orange, dark red, cyan, and dark purple were respectively Crown prince , A surname , the emperor, Prince of peace The color of the dress is restricted to others. Deep reds and purples, in particular, were not allowed to be used by anyone other than the royal family until 1945.

In Japan Takamatsuka tombs On the mural, except for Tang suit Male and female Portrait of a woman Besides, there are four sides Guardian angel the Azure dragon , Vermilion bird , White tiger , Black Tortoise ( Black turtle (Picture. To this day, in some parts of Japan, when wearing a kimono, white and red are generally not used for ceremonial purposes. Because: white represents the holy, pure; Red symbolizes magic.

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